170 Hinges

I am currently in the process of finishing the remaining doors for my little (read-1year) kitchen project and have stumbled onto a question. For a corner cabinet, I am looking to install two relatively small doors attached with a butt joint at a 90 degree angle(or add an additional lazy susan/bi-fold type hinge is movement is needed). I am looking to utilize a 170 degree hinge where the pivot door will meet the face frame and I see that for the most part of my search, I will have to mount the hinge to the inside wall of the cabinet since I have yet to see a mounting plate that will allow attachment to the face frame.
Now my question, Blum makes hinges for a full overlay (3/4" I would guess since the carcass is made of that material), but the stiles of the face frame are 2" and the rest of the doors have a 1" overlay. My question, if I move the cup for the hinge an additional 1/2" (or possibly more due to mounting location on the cabinet) from the edge of the door to get the 1" overlay will the hinge continue to operate as designed? It appears that I will have to block out an additional 3/4" to mount the plate so the face frame does not interfere with its operation I am not sure how much the cup can be moved?
I am sure that someone else has come across this at some time, how did you work around the limitations of these hinges?
SteveA
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With 1" overlay, what hinges are you using on the other doors?
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Blum compact 33 110, with 1" o/l
wrote:

With 1" overlay, what hinges are you using on the other doors?
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I am assuming that then you mention Blum hinges you are talking about the Euro style hinges with the 35mm hole in the door.
Typically the cup location is critical. Basically where the hinge mounts on the door is important as to whether the hinge will function properly or not. Because most of these style hinges also account for the spacing between the back of the door and the front of the face frame the hole has to be drilled so that the hinge will pivot the door where it is intended to pivot the door. Basically if you change the location of the hole in relatioship to the edge of the stile the door may not open at all, or close for that matter.
You should stay with what the instructions indicate.
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Leon wrote:

LOL ... similar posts, three minutes apart. One would think we'd "been there done that", eh? :)
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A time or 500.
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On Tue, 3 Nov 2009 08:50:54 -0600, the infamous "Leon"

We all got the t-shirts, right?
-- "To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical." -- Thomas Jefferson
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SteveA wrote:

Off the cuff, and IME, you could be asking for trouble/extra work.
Depending upon the hinge type, the distance from the edge of the door to the cup hole (usually distance "B") is a critical distance for most euro type hinges. By moving this distance you may find unintended consequences with clearance issues, including not having enough clearance to mount lazy susan hardware or shelf slides.
Not saying that it won't work, just that you should probably dummy up some doors and give it a try before drilling your cup holes in finished doors.
One of the biggest mistake you can make when building cabinets is to not decide upon your door hinges and drawer hardware FIRST. Failure to do so will ALWAYS cause problems, even for the experienced cabinet maker. DAMHIKT!
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I am planning to make up a couple of test pieces today, moving the cup in off the door edge to get the overlay I need and see how the hinge reacts to this change.If I could have found a 165-170 face frame hinge, I would not have any problems at all, but alas no one seems to make them at least with a 1" overlay.
If all this experimentation does not work out, I have already told wife she might end up with an open shelf cabinet, which she does not see to mind, since she was the one restricting its design. It is a straight 90 degree top corner cabinet with face frame one leg 12" =/- the other 10 1/2" +/-.
SteveA
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I have seen a piece of face-frame attached to the door and that face- frame stile attached to a regular (170?) hinge. I don't have anything in my catalogues that jumps out at me as a solution, so Swingman's suggestion to prototype is a good one.
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I have seen a piece of face-frame attached to the door and that face- frame stile attached to a regular (170?) hinge. I don't have anything in my catalogues that jumps out at me as a solution, so Swingman's suggestion to prototype is a good one.
I have been searching for several weeks now, also with no luck. Fortunately I have plenty of scrap material to do a number of tests cuts (drills) I hope I can come up with a combo that will work.
Thanx for the input
SteveA
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SteveA wrote:

A dummy, hinge side, stile that you can experiment with should tell you everything you need to know.
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No shortage of dummies in this shop *smirk*
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