$15 electric flush cut door jamb saw. Installing tile / hardwood floors/ carpet.

I am installing slate in my hallway. I have 5 doors ( = 10 door jambs) to shorten so I can slip the slate underneith the door jamb. I checked ebay for electric door jamb saws and found $150 on up. A little too much to justify for my project so I went to Home depot and purchased one of those offset handle flush cut hand saws for $15. After the first door jamb I decided "SCREW THIS!". I took the saw to the garage and removed the pin holding the handle on then removed the wooden handle. I pulled out my dullest sawsall blade and snaped to about 2" long in my vise with a hammer. I then welded the broken saws all blade to the flush cut saw where the wooden handle used to be.
SWEET!!!!!!!!!!
I took my new flush cut / sawzall blade and chucked it up in my sawzall. I set the sawzall to a low speed (about 1.5 - 2) and it took about 30 seconds per jamb.
I have decided to take out an "internet patent" on my new blade so if you read about this on the internet and use it please send me $.50... Ha... :-)
P.S. You could probabally drill the sawzall blade and bolt it to the flush cut saw if you aren't blessed with a welder.
Sorry for the cross post with alt.homerepair but I am pretty darned proud of myself!
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You should be--you save 20 bucks over this <http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/FCA-0001/Standard-Flush-Cut-Recip-Blade-Adapter
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I pulled out my dullest sawsall blade and snaped to

Last time I trimmed jambs I just used a 12" long, fine tooth blade in the Sawz-All. Greg
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<...snipped...> I pulled out my dullest sawsall blade and snaped to

American* ingenuity at its finest!
* Substitute appropriate country of origin here.
--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf.lonestar.org
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Interesting idea - glad it worked for you! I would have thought that the super-flexible flushcut blade would tend to bind/fold/kink as it gets pushed on the forward stroke of the sawzall. You apparently didn't have any problem with this? Did you have any orbital action on the cut? Thanks for sharing, Andy
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I believe you are thinking of those very flexable japanese flush cut saws. I didn't use one of those, I used one of these: http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/111010American - Saws-175933&cid866714B73CE25BD7859492CB05B4A4 It has a very rigid blade and a spine on the back like a hand miter saw. The handle sits about an inch and a half or so above the blade. The handle is rivited in the center of the spine on the blade. There is a little knob that acts as the second mounting point on the spine. You push the knob and it releases the second mounting point allowing you to pivot the blade 180 degrees making it a left handed cut instead of a right handed cut. The blade is about 1/32" thick making it perfect for cutting jambs. It was $14.98 at lowes (unfortunatey no rosewood handle which I am sure hurt it's performance). Somebody on the internet calls it an ofset hand dovetail saw.
The cuts I made with the sawzall were even smoother than the one I made by hand. No splinters, no tearout.
Because there is a little bit of mass to the saw blade I used a slow blade on my sawzall.

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Sorry, one more try for a link: (Amazon.com product link shortened)
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OK, that does make more sense. I was thinking something more like this http://tinyurl.com/2jm5xx (Amazon "shark" saw) without any kind of spine, which I've also seen at the big box stores for $15 or so. So you welded the sawzall blade to the offset handle portion of the American-style flush saw. Probably what you said in the original post; I just had the wrong flush cut saw in my head. Got it. Again, thanks for sharing! Andy
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I had the same dellema when installing about 600sf of flooring. I ended up using my biscuit joiner with the depth stop removed. Worked great.
Todd

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