brand new and everything is tight.
But buying a name brand with quality components, and maintaining the saw as
it should be would also add to the accuracy. My biggest consideration is cut
capacity as I do lots of porch and deck repairs.
What to me would contribute to accuracy is initial setup, stabilty of the
tool to the platform, and table extensions.
My 2 cents
I would have to guess that the 10" is more accurate. Seems to me that the
larger blade on the 12" would result in more runout. Though if you are at
the point that this level of accuracy is important you should use a sled (or
good mitre) on the table saw.
I have a 12" that is pretty well tuned and has a good blade, but it still
can't cut as accurately (consistently) as the TS.
I second that emotion. I gave up arguing the point that a TS/sled combo
is far more accurate for crosscutting where perfection (or the mere
striving for it) is desired; my Dewalt 12 CMS does not give me the same
accuracy as cutting on a sled. Others have argued with me adamantly
that I don't know what the heck I'm talking about. sigh! :)
I won't make any absolute statements about accuracy, but I will
give my subjective opinion. I recently bought a Makita LS1013 10-in
SCMS. I also considered several other models, including the DeWalt
12-in SCMS having used one of these quite a bit in the past. Several
things sold me on the Makita. The electronic soft-start pretty much
eliminates the jump that occurs when starting up most other saws. It
came with a nice 80T blade, which has been fantastic for the finish
work I've been doing. The fit and finish on the Makita seemed a bit
more refined than any of the others. Finally, the cost was almost
$100 less than it's competitors. This week I saw my local Harbor
Freight store selling these for $460, which IMO is a screaming deal.
Capability to handle stock between the 10 and 12-in models is
almost the same. Crosscut width is determined by the slides and both
saws can accomodate 12-in wide boards. Depth is of course about an
inch greater on the 12-in saws, if that's an issue.
I have only two minor complaints about this otherwise perfect
tool. First is the smallish fence. Right now I'm using the saw for
finish carpentry on a house we're building, so it's mounted to a
mobile stand. This means I have to rely on the saw fence and it could
stand to be a bit larger. Later, I plan to mount this saw in a
crosscut table for furniture making and this should take care of the
issue once and for all. My second complaint is the depth of cut stop.
It's small and flimsy and not suitable for any type of fine work.
The tilt mechanism on this saw is so precise, that it would be easy to
add a very solid and accurate depth stop. I've already designed a
replacement depth stop, but I haven't had time yet to build and
Straight out of the box with it's stock blade, this saw makes
glass-like cuts through the end grain of VG fir. If it were me, I
wouldn't think twice about getting the Makita LS1013. Tools don't get
much better than this.
Richard Johnson PE
Camano Island, WA
I opted for the 10" slide for the following reasons. A 10" will cut
up to 12" wide, I already owned good quality 10" blades and a 12" just
makes it a little awkward to work with. I got the Bosch.
Used a makita LS1013 for about 2 yrs now. Has been a very dependable tool.
Would suggest using a WW Chopmaster blade. Have it mounted on a rousseau
miter saw stand (lucked out was on a closeout when I got it) which nice
since I can roll it out of the garage to use the saw. If you get the
rousseau save $15 and do get the cross brace kit. Just bolt a 2x2 to allow
for the extra room needed
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