10" combination blades

I am looking for a new blade for my TS. My short list includes the Freud LU84R011, CMT 215.050.10, Amana 610504, and the DeWalt DW7640. Does anyone have experiences with these blades or suggestions on blades that I should add to my investigation? I don't really want to spend the money for a Forrest or the like. All these can be had for between $45 and $60.
Thanks,
Charlie
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"Charlie Mraz" writes:

The Freud works for me.
Lew
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anyone
I bought the Freud and I've never felt like I needed any other blade. It's a 3/16" kerf, too.
Jerry
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I hear a lot of people talking about Forrest blades. A bit pricey though, but most people swear by them and very few swear at them. I don't have one so I am just relaying what I read.
Wayne

Freud
should
a
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I have an older Freud blade. It's a sixty series, I belive. I have their router and have never had a complaint about it. I got a Forrest WWII and it was a couple of steps above the Freud. I've read several articles that rated the LU8*** blades well above the sixties.
rhg
NoOne N Particular wrote:

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anyone
http://www.toolking.com/dewalt/view.asp?ID802 http://www.toolking.com/dewalt/view.asp?ID801
The 40T was $29 in the store several weeks ago. I believe they're phasing out the "Series 60" blades - which got great reviews. I'm tempted to head down there again and pick up anuth'a.
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Why not be different and try Oldham 1040? Fine Woodworking rate it as very good compare to Forest ll. You can get an Oldham's Signature Series 1040 at Ebay for less than $15 or slightly more including shipping and insurance.
I have bought a few at Ebay and I never regret it and I save a bundle. Beside Forest ll, you are really paying for the namesake!

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wrote:

good
Ebay for

Beside
I'll second that. I've used a lot of Oldams over the years and have always liked them. The price is a lot easier on the pocket than what you can pay for some of the other names, and the blade has always cut well for me. I'm using a DeWalt right now because I got it at a good price. I don't often switch blades for ripping and I've never been let down by my blades. Some day I may try a WWII just because I read so much about it here, but if it doesn't stand up and salute me when I come into the room and cut my wood all by itself then I'm going to be pretty disappointed - based on the acolades it gets here.
--

-Mike-
snipped-for-privacy@sprintmail.com
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See previous. I have a WWII and compared to one of the sixty series Freud, the difference is... the cuts, both CC and rip are silky smooth. I don't know about stand up and salute or works by itself but little is needed to be done to the surface of the wood after a cut with a WWII. I'm planning to learn if other blades do as well but it's the best I've seen so far.
rhg
Mike Marlow wrote:

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wrote:

I have the Freud and place it very near the Forrest WWII, which I also own. The Forrest is better at ripping, both are excellent with ply and crosscuts.
Before I bought a WWII, I used a 24T rip blade, unless I had just one or two rips. With the WWII, I usually only install a rip blade for LOTS of 4/4, or 8/4 or thicker rips, like leg blanks.
My saw is a 3HP General 650.
Barry
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I am using a DeWalt 7640. It rips as well as my Freud 24 tooth ripper and it crosscuts superbly - absolutely smooth, finished cuts that are "light-tight" straight to my combination square blade. Cuts are fringe-free in hard maple or junky fir plywood. I might point out that if blade stability is an issue the runout on this blade is the best I've got (includes Freuds, CMT, etc.) and the body is a full .100", the thickest I've got.
Tim Ellestad

anyone
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