Yale Lock Bolt

I have recently changed the barrel on a Yale lock (with the remainder of the lock components remaining in place). However, since putting everything back together, when the door shuts the bolt does not travel fully into the keeper because of some resistance. The keeper hasn't been touched and the lock fits well on the door, so I can't see what has changed to create this issue. I removed the barrel completely (with the long screws and fixing plate which holds it in place) and re- attached the lock, and the same happens, so I can't see it's related to replacing the barrel in any way. When the door is open the bolt moves freely. It's almost as if the keeper is too close to the rebate, but I'm fairly sure the problem wasn't there originally. Any ideas?

Reply to
mattm
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On Wed, 1 Jul 2009 08:57:25 -0700 (PDT), mattm had this to say:

Check that the fixing plate isn't getting in the way of the lock and preventing it 'seating' properly.

Reply to
Frank Erskine

If your lock is the type that allows you to rotate the key 360 deg to deadlock the bolt, then you may have reassembled the lock with the mechanism in the wrong position when you inserted the connecting bar.

Try taking the lock body off and moving the mechanism so that the arrow marks line up before reassembling.

Alternatively, if you haven't cut the connecting bar short enough, it might be fouling the mechanism inside the handle.

Finally, are you sure you used the correct set of holes for the screws that hold the cylinder (barrel) in place? If the connecting bar is presented to high or too low, it can foul the mechanism.

Reply to
Dave Osborne

If the bolt moves freely and fully when the door is open, can I assume that the mechanism has been reassembled correctly. I moved rotate the ring around where the bar fits so the arrows lined up before reassembly? The bar protrudes by the same amount as that on the previous cylinder. With the cylinder removed completed, the bolt still meets some resistance in the keeper, so I suspect the issue is lock/ keeper alignment?

Reply to
mattm

Are you sure the door / doorframe hasn't simply warped in the current heat-wave?

Reply to
Graham.

If the bolt moves freely and fully with the door open then there can only be two possible explanations.

Firstly, the lock wasn't fitted correctly before you changed the barrel and worked better that way.

And secondly, something has happened to your door or door frame (weather would be a good candidate) and the fact that you have changed the barrel is a coincidence.

Other than that, it's difficult to diagnose at a distance. Can you post some pics?

Reply to
Dave Osborne

The idea of a warped door/frame in the heat could be a good call and certainly sounds plausible, and the cylinder change was indeed just coincidental. I can't say I tested the action of the lock exhaustively before replacing the cylinder. It's for a friend, so I'll wait to see if gets any better when the temperature drops. Many thanks for the advice and suggestions.

Reply to
mattm

You do need a gap between the edge of the keeper & the bolt to allow the curve on the bolt to start it moving - too close & it acts like a flat & not a curve.

Worth having a look inside the lock, the bolt is attached to a rectangular metal yoke which can go out of square. Also check that the spring is hooked in properly.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

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