Worktop lights - wiring

[Ben Blaukopf]

I've got two options for wiring my worktop lights. Plans are:

a) Run a cable from a gang on the main light switch to a "ceiling rose" which consists of choc box connector behind a blanking plate, somewhere convenient for me. This is looped into the main lighting circuit. From there, run a single cable to each light, terminating in a fused appliance outlet.

b) As above, but instead of terminating in a fused appliance outlet set in the wall, I terminate in an FCU mounted on the underside of the cabinet. This is my preferred option because

i) I can mostly reuse existing chases, so it saves me work ii) The outlet will be much less visible.

So is b) acceptable? And does an FCU mounted on a cabinet count for the purposes of working out where I am allowed to run cable?

Ben

[David Hansen]

On Sun, 15 Apr 2007 17:04:17 +0100 someone who may be Ben Blaukopf wrote this:-

Why a fused outlet? Why not just a cord outlet?

Fixed wiring should be fixed to fixed things, like walls. From a suitable outlet flexible wiring should be taken to the cabinet. Then the cabinet can be changed with the fixed wiring not being disturbed.

Assuming the worktop is in a kitchen and the lights are linkable switched ones under cupboards then why not run a twin and earth cable to a cord outlet in/on the wall at one end of the lights and then continue via link cables? A switch could be incorporated if necessary.

[Lurch]

On Sun, 15 Apr 2007 17:04:17 +0100, Ben Blaukopf mused:

Why the fused outlets?

Why the fused outlets?

Usual method is to run twin and earth to a junction box fixed to the underside of the cabinet and then run the flexes to the lights from their, or if the flexes on the lights are long enough I usually just fix the lights and drop the flex down the void behind the unit and connect to junction boxes above.

Junction boxes should provide some sort of cable support.

If the cable is sticking out of the wall then that is the point at which your permitted zones eminate from.

[Ben Blaukopf]

Last set of worktop lights I saw required a 3A fuse, and I had assumed (always dangerous) that was standard.

It's not a single run of cupboards.

[Lurch]

On Sun, 15 Apr 2007 18:52:48 +0100, Ben Blaukopf mused:

That would be in the instructions I assume? Professionals don't read instructions.

Repeat the process several times then. ;)

[John Rumm]

The way I did this recently was to use a two gang switch on the wall. One to do the above cabinet lights, and one the below cabinet ones (there was no central room light - all lighting was done with reflected mini linear fluorescent link lights.

I used a pair of 4 terminal junction boxes to derive the switched feed to the lights, and then ran a radial from these to each of the lighting positions (three on each switched set). At the destination I terminated in a 3A lighting socket positioned just above the cabinets. That way it is possible to wire and test everything before connecting up the lights or even having the cabinets fitted. The link lighting simply plugs into the appropriate socket and the flexes tucked out of sight.

There was no need to fuse down the 6A circuit for the lights I used. So check the specs carefully.

[Ben Blaukopf]

I don't see where you mounted the JBs; I'm planning to use the blanking plate solution to meet the accessibility requirement.

Mmm - I didn't think of terminating above the cabinets. That works well, and there's no worry about what the sockets look like.

Presumably you then just ran the flex for the worktop lighting in the small void behind the back of the cabinet? That might not work so well with the IKEA kitchen we're potentially getting.

I reckon I'll put a fuse in there somewhere anyway, as I've come across lights that need it, and it's easy to do now.

Thanks,

Ben

[John Rumm]

There were mounted in the ceiling void (had the ceiling down at the time). They remain easy enough to get to from under the landing floor however. Having said that there are plenty of other places they could have gone.

I found that from the ground there is no place in the kitchen (relatively small) that you could see them anyway. Having said that the fittings I chose were neat enough anyway:

Presumably you then just ran the flex for the worktop lighting in the

It did yes. The flex on the link lights was only 3A two core anyway so it would be easy enough to "lose" should you need to.

Yup, no harm in that certainly.

[Ben Blaukopf]

Ah, I hadn't spotted those, and they're cheaper and better looking than the MK ones. Ta.

Thinking about it, the plugs are fused anyway, so I don't need to. Sorted.

Thanks for the advice,

Ben

[John Rumm]

The 2A plugs are not usually fused IIRC.

[Andrew Gabriel]

Fused ones are available, but no they aren't normally fused. AFAIK, only MK do a fused range of BS548 plugs.

I used Klik lighting sockets, one mounted on the wall above and one just below each run of wall cupboards. They are only half the size of a standard faceplace, and mount in recessed architrave back box. TLC only seem to do the ceiling rose version of these -- these seem to be hard to find on the web, but every electrical wholesaler will have them in stock.

[John Rumm]

I remember you posting about those in the past, and I did actually look for them. I could not find anywhere to order them from at the time - hence why I went with the ones I linked.

My original plan was to fit one socket above and one below - based on the assumption the pelmet would hide the width of the architrave socket. Using the bigger sockets I placed them both at the top, which with hindsight seemed to work well enough.