The kitchen worktop has bubbled and in one place you cannot put anything on it as the laminate top just isnt sticking to the base. This is next to the sink and I guess whoever installed it didnt silicone round the sink so water has ingressed and caused the worktop to bubble.
Other than replacing the top which the landlord will not do is there a way of re sticking the top back do so it adheres to the chipdoard or whatever the wood is?
thanks for the help
Wait for it to dry thoroughly and reglue with something gap filling like epocxy or car body filler.
Millan I'm afraid there is nothing you can do to rectify this problem without replacing the worktop and having it installed properly. The wood inside will remain expanded, even if you let it dry out. I would suggest that your landlord gets the person out who originally fittted it and get him to rectify his bad job. Regards Calum Sabey NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544
It would be an idea to clamp the laminate as well. Assuming that the problem is ingress of water at the sink, then the sink will have to be removed anyway in order to introduce the Revered and Ubiquitious Car Body Filler.
After this a stout piece of timber (e.g. 50x50 in this case) could be placed on the worktop over the stuck area and clamped using the sink hole to fit the clamp.
Alternatively some heavy weights such as pans full of water could be used to weight down the laminate after sticking with the RUCBF.
Buy a glass counter protector and sit that over the area. Much easier than fixing it.
I'd second that and perhaps get someone to look at the job to say it's a bad job rather than misuse. Else the landlord might hold your deposit for its repair when you go.
Brilliant idea. And for damp walls put a setee in front of the mould.
Adam
delivery
He is unlikely to get a replacement for the one top that even comes near to matching the others if there are other tops there.
Best to bite the bullet, Millan and replace with a neutral colour.
There isn't all that much visible in the top that the sink goes into. And what is visble is soon almost permanently covered in dirty dishes.
If it spans a few cupboards you could cut it to suit. But replacing them isn't all that big a job if you have all the time in the world and enough confidence to fill it.
The water to the taps can be stopped and the taps unscrewed and removed. Ditto the sink drain. Tiled tops can be a problem but part of the problem is water getting between old tiles and the back of the top.
So don't be afraid to strip them out too.
Use what is left to mark out the new top. Make sure that there is a tight fit -maybe even chasing out some of the plaster. Bear in mind the walls are not going to be square.
The hole for the sink aught to be measured from the sink even if you are keeping the old one. The worktop might have been damaged because the hole was too big. It needs to be about half an inch smaller than the sink.
Put the sink on the top, face to face and draw around it. Then draw an inner contour 1/2" inside that. Then cut that one out with your Lidl (or Aldi I forget which is, or was, on sale from Thursday) jig-saw.
Remember to paint the cut edges with clear silicon once you are happy with the cuts and holes. Trying it in situ will give you the places to drill for the tap(s). At this point you might find out there is no way of clipping the sink down.
Shoddy workers may have removed too much from beneath the sink for a quick fit and a fast effoff.
Here is where the clear silicon comes in. It can cover a multitude of sins. If there is nothing to fix to you can add "grounds" and silicon and screw to that if you can get some clips. to that.
Bit of a codge up, that.
Also note: It is much better that coloured silicon or almost any other sealants. It is also better for skirting and etc., as it doesn't skin for ages, you can get it off and it is elastic.
How big is the affected area?
The only sure and reasonably quick way I can think of is to remove the worktop and rout out the affected area plus a surrounding rebate from underneath. Then it's just a matter of gluing/screwing some new chipboard in there.
Hopefully the landlord won't inspect the underside of the workop :^)
cheers, Pete.
If it's an inset sink, the seal should have prevented this.
I thought this was uk.d-i-y not uk.estate-agents.mean+cunning
Owain
Well I assumed he had fixed the seal but needed a level worktop without replacing it. I doubt if a settee would be a good idea in the kitchen.
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