Worklights

[Piers]

Like these:

Trying to figure out if I'm doing something wrong or these things are just crap. I can rarely get more than a few hours at a time out of the bulbs in these things before they go. Normally find the ceramic (?) bits at the end of the bulbs have cracked off and/or the glass at the end.

I think the instructions typically say keep 1m clear all around, but a) I sometimes do this but still have the bulbs go pretty quickly, and b) often I can't get 1m all around.

Is this just the way these things are, and are there any practical ways to improve bulb longevity? I tend to buy cheap-ass bulbs, but that's because my expectation is that they won't last long - perhaps it's circular!

Maybe LED versions are better in this day and age - any recommendations?

[Andrew Mawson]

That style of bulb is fragile even in a fixed PIR type lamp, a work light inevitably gets moved and knocked when the bulb is on which is a no no anyway. But for £15 squid you get what you pay for. LED one are not bright enough. The fluorescent ones are much better and more robust.

Andrew

[harryagain]

Not sure about halogen lamps but conventional "rough service" incandescent lamps have additional filiment supports which means they can take more knocking about.

You might try switching it off before you move it?

[Lobster]

On 01 Jan 2014, Piers grunted in news:52c3d078$0$1171$ [e-mail]:

I've had one of those for years; I can't say it gets much use these days but when i was using it regularly I never had a problem with this; AFAICR I've only ever replaced the bulb two or three times. I've certainly never bought anything other than the very basic replacements for it. I do take care not to knock it about; perhaps more so than other people? That's the only possibility which springs to mind.

(My only problem with this lamp is that over time its glass pane has become milky, presumably with the heat.)

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Piers writes

Try using lower wattage bulbs. 120Watt halogen should be ample light for inspection work and produce much less heat. Check tube length is the same.

[ARW]

That is an idea that is worth trying.

Dunno if 120W lamps are available in R7 118mm form. But you can get 200W

118mm lamps. ISTR 150W and lower use the R7 78mm lamps.

[chris French]

In message , Andrew Mawson writes

I've not tried any LED ones, though surely they could be bright enough by now. But I have a fluorescent one I bought some years ago from Screwfix (flat 2D buld type) and I much prefer that. I have yet to have to replace the bulb, and you can work close to them without being roasted like a halogen. though at 36W it's not as bright as a 400W halogen I guess.

>

[F Murtz]

These lights need to be horizontal as the element migrates down one end and creates a hot spot otherwise. Is this the problem?

[John Rumm]

The 2D fluro jobbies are nice for indoor and close work, but sometimes the heat projected from the halogen ones is welcome!

Not moving them when hot seems to be the way to keep the lamps working.

[Piers]

Thanks all. Will try lower power bulbs, and may also invest in a fluorescent one.

(Don't tend to move it around when hot, but I suspect lots of unplugging/replugging doesn't help.)

[Adrian]

...and letting it cool down, too...

They really are incredibly fragile. Look at 'em boz-eyed, and they bulbs go.

[Murmansk]

If you have access to a Costco they have an LED version of a lamp that looks like yours. They only usually sell decent stuff and are amazingly good at giving refunds in case of any problem.

[Andrew Gabriel]

It's a Dulalite one, 5000K, 17.5W.

I mounted one about 25' over my parents' driveway a few months ago, and it's still working well. The light output was higher and better quality than the 20W LED light I actually bought for the purpose.

I can't yet tell how long it will last, but it's had some of the heaviest rain we've ever had during that period. I did some minor mods to waterproof it when using a different mount, but it's pretty well waterproofed anyway. Even the on/off slide switch on the back is just sliding a magnet, which operates a reed switch through the continuous plastic back.

[charles]

I have some 100w 117mm tubes, but I did buy them a few years ago,

[Dave Plowman (News)]

It is if you buy from the likes of B&Q. Their bulbs can fail,before being used. ;-)

Get some from a decent electrical wholesaler like TLC.

[Piers]

Goodness me, I wouldn't buy anything like that from a shed ... I'd buy it from the cheapest seller on ebay :-).

I just bought a couple of branded bulbs from RS, as I needed to make the order up to get free postage. Will see how they perform.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Right. ;-)

I've got one, and a replacement from TLC has lasted pretty well so far. The snag with the LED ones is they simply ain't anything like as bright. For where you need decent working light.

[Grimly Curmudgeon]

They are just shit and never last. Instead of buying any more of those, I'm looking seriously at LED arrays.

[meow2222]

I mostly use CFLs for this. Presumably you could convert it if you want. LEDs are better for small low light ouput tasks.

NT

[Dave Plowman (News)]

You can get an LED array that gives the same light as a 400w halogen?