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wood routers

Phew, that was quick !

And very nicely executed.

michael adams

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Reply to
michael adams
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I'm sure a T5 is indeed nice. Alternatively, I have a T4 and although it may be considered a bit small and wimpy, it's my favourite and the one I reach for if I want to do something quickly and easily. Nice and light too when you find you're doing something on a piece of fixed timber up above head height (which I'm sure sensible people don't use routers on!).

Reply to
GMM

I know I'm going to be in the minority here but I would recommend getting a router that can take an 8mm collet. While 8mm shank bits might not be that common they can be worthwhile seeking out. There is a lot more beef in an 8mm shaft compared to a 6mm one than the figures initially suggests. I'v e snapped a few 6mm ones in my time.

Reply to
fred

How do you count them though? ;)

Reply to
GMM

My reservation with the T4 is that its not quite the jack of all trades you get with the Elu MOF97 style clones (of which the T5 is one). I was also under the impression that the T4 was "badged" router available from several vendors rather than a through and through Trend model - and some reports suggest the quality is not on par with their other models.

I know what you mean about the joys of a small an light unit though - for some tasks they are ideal. I have a small Bosch palm router that is ideal for small jobs and many edge profiling tasks - I find I am using that quite often these days.

Vis:

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Reply to
John Rumm

The T5 comes with both collets IIRC.

Reply to
John Rumm

How long did you spend getting the spiral thread on the clamps in SketchUp :-)

Reply to
Andy Burns

About 30 seconds - or as long as it took to find a suitable clamp in the

3D warehouse ;-)

(although I can draw a spiral in sketchup if I must!)

Reply to
John Rumm

I had seen some reports about reliability issues with the T4 but as it was a present from er indoors I could hardly quibble. No sign of any problems with my, admittedly intermittent, use.

That Bosch looks very useful. I like the look of the angled base. Not quite sure what I'd use it for, but I'm sure I'd soon find something if I had one! The vaccuum attachment looks well thought out as well: Routers are almost unrivalled in their potential to make a mess so anything that mitigates that can't be bad.

Reply to
GMM

The main raison d'etre of the angled base is actually rather mundane, and is designed for use when trimming laminate. Normally, if trimming when a worktop is actually installed, you can't go right to the wall before the router hits it. With the angle base, you can offer the cutter up to the edge without the body getting in the way. However there may be an application for slanted grooves or edging where it could also be a bit nifty.

Indeed - wood chip sandwich anyone?

Yup I used that yesterday... you have to use it with the big offset base (with the side knob on it - that makes it very easy to balance on the edge of something. The cowl then mostly encloses the cutter all round and collects 90%+ of the waste. The only thing to be careful with is not take too heavy a cut and create large shavings that won't fit through the smallish airways. (I was routing slightly resinous pine and manage to block it once or twice).

Reply to
John Rumm

When you use your Router in a table it is used non-plunge.

There are many on this forum who have made their own Router table ... PM me if you need details / photos

Reply to
Rick Hughes

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Most people seem to start with 1/4 routers and after a year or two if not earlier - when they realise all they can do - decide they could also make use of a 1/2 job as well which is the only real size for heavier applications chopping out worktops, heavier router table work. Which isn't to say the 1/4 won't still be 1st choice for the lighter jobs.

Unfortunately the 8mm falls rather in the middle.

If you're snapping cutters it suggests either you're pushing too hard, or that the cutters are blunt.

michael adams

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Reply to
michael adams

I fully agree if you don't need an 1/2" ... an 8mm is great option.

I have Trend T5 which is 8mm great for free hand use and also have a Trend T11 which I use mainly in the Router table

I only buy 8mm (TREND CraftPro series) or 1/2" shank cutters - don't buy any 1/4"

Reply to
Rick Hughes

In article , michael adams scribeth thus

Got a 'lil trend unit very versatile used for machining some ally metal as well as wood with the right bits of course:)

And a rather larger one came from B&O a while ago, useless mains switch now modified but works well otherwise when requested to so do...

Reply to
tony sayer

Probably worth mentioning for any not aware, that you can use 1/4" cutters in a 1/2" collet with an adaptor bushing. Hence small cutters can still be usefully used in a table.

Reply to
John Rumm

I have one of those and dislike it. Instead of the easy mounting and dismounting of the motor barrel from the base as shown in the videos for some reason I find it infuriatingly awkward to do.

Fitting guide rings is a bit of a faff also.

Then the depth setting is awkward to use. I got the plunge base attachment which solved some of those problems.

I generally find Bosch products well made and well designed but I think this one escaped early

To date the best router I've seen for dust collection is the large Festool. Have seen it demonstrated but never actually tried it.

Reply to
fred

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I prefer to use a pukka alternative collet. The large Freud I have had a 1/

4" adapter but I found it could slip. I'm not sure what the availability is for all routers but the better ones have this. Anyway collets wear so repl acement does have to be an option
Reply to
fred

I don't know how much variability there is between various examples, but don't find it too bad - so long as you make sure the arrows on the body and base are aligned for the initial insertion or final removal. The trick seems to be it get it back to the sliding position (i.e. height adjustment thread / teeth not engaged) ASAP.

Not tried that on mine yet...

I find that works well enough - slide it roughly to the right place and then twist it the final click to lock the slide, then use the thumb wheel to fine adjust the height, and finally snap the clasp shut to tighten it up.

I have seen those, what is it like?

(not sure I would bother with it personally since I have other plunge routers anyway)

Most of the complaints I have seen on that one are that some of them seem to break collets rather too frequently. Not had the problem myself yet, but take care to never tighten the collet not without a cutter being in there.

Likewise - seen it on videos etc and it appears quite decent.

Reply to
John Rumm

Many of the Freud replacements for the 1/2" machines actually fit a range of routers other than theirs. (although not universally - my Freud collet and nut don't fit my Makita 1/2" router).

I also found the collet on my Fraud seemed to be introducing some run out in the centring of the cutter (sometimes as bad a 0.2mm) I managed to make it a bit better by mounting a long 1/2" shank cutter in the chuck on the drill press with the collet over it, and spinning it up and polishing it with some emery cloth. Its now better than 0.05mm, but it might be time to get a new one!

Reply to
John Rumm

Yes I find the Freud a bit agricultural compared to the Elu. Noisier and rougher to run but it has plenty of poke to get the job done. Its permanently set up with a replaceable blade bearing guided bit for use with 6mm mdf templates we use frequently.

If I could just drop in a word for Wealden Tools. Been using their bits for years with never a complaint and their service is always good also. (No connection etc.)

Reply to
fred

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