I need a wood glue with reasonable open time (genuine 5mins to get clamps on and ensure square) and moisture resistant. Bostik's website doesn't list the open time for green/blue bottle evo-stik, bizarrely. It is for dowels & biscuits, cupboards, panels etc.
Anyone a suggestion? Evo-stik blue bottle?
All of the PVA and Cascamite types of glue will give you what you want. Try Unibond, I've used that for over 40 years with no problems (Evo-stik does the same)!
Remember, that to get the best results and least problems, always do a 'dry' assembly first as this will expose any gaps and imperfections in the job and may give some ideas on a better cramping sequence.
Once you have done this and marked everything in a proper assembly sequence - then glue and cramp - and it often pays to put a piece of newspaper between the work and cramps (or temporary bearers) to prevent accidental 'sticking'.
Cash
Aerolite 306? 5 to 25 minutes open.
Expensive. Maybe not suitable for your requirements.
Noted re replies.
Assuming after clamping that some cupping forces a slight gap (unlikely, but possible), would a polyurethane glue with long open time like Gorilla Glue be suitable?
If not, evo-stik is quick to pickup locally.
Hot glue gun?
woss wrong with PVA?
Hot glue has almost zero open time in my experience. PVA - well there are waterproof PVA's, and new ones coming onto the market.
The OP doesn't say what the job is, but I use PU now quite extensively. It has adequate open time, is waterproof and will fill a gap though this is by foaming and is not as strong as a tight joint. I get the gunnable tubes which makes application easy. The only downside is that it isn't water soluble so plastic gloves are a must when assembling. Another plus is that it will stick to metal as well.
If you don't like PU go the Cascamite route though you will need to find the current name for it. It fills gaps strongly.
Rob
Kitchen cupboard frames made of PAR european oak, joined by dowel joint (Joint Genie) & some biscuit jointing. Final finish will be Osmo hardwax oil.
Until I get the clamps I can not test how tightly I can close the small gaps due to cupping/twist. However from just squeezing with my hands and a steel rule for guidance the worst gap closes down to a thickness of a graduation line with daylight visible through.
Noted, sounds like cascamite may be the better choice.
Titebond II (not III) for general, with PVA (builder's generic, slightly thinned) in a lemon-nozzle bottle for the biscuits.
Wouldn't touch PU with a bargepole, although admittedly Gorilla is one of the better ones.
Noted, Titebond II ordered. Thanks.
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