Wiring Thermostat for KickSpace Heater

[TheScullster]

Hi all

More kitchen stuff.... I intend to fit a Myson Kick Space heater to avoid using wall space for a radiator. In the "technical" manual downloaded, the instruction for connection of a room stat states "If a remote room thermostat is required, wire it into the fused spur at this stage".

All sounds far too vague for my liking!

So the questions are:

What room stat to use? Cable or flex to this stat and spec? How is this "wired in to the fused spur"? Does the stat simply act as a switch and need wiring across the live from the fused spur to the heater?

TIA

Phil

[Chris J Dixon]

How about something like:

You can download instructions on the above page, (some interesting translations) it is an active device, so you need the neutral, but the aim is to switch the live supply to the heater. Once you leave the fused spur, AIUI you can use flex, of a size appropriate for the fuse rating you have chosen.

Chris

[David WE Roberts]

I assume that you have decided that you do really need a seperate thermostat for the kitchen?

I fitted a kickspace heater in the last kitchen I did and it had an inbuilt thermostat which turned the fan on when hot water was flowing. This worked fine with a master thermostat in the hall and individual thermostats on the radiators elsewhere.

HTH

Dave R

[TheScullster]

"David WE Roberts" wrote

Hi Dave

My understanding of the built in stat is that whenever heat is being called for anywhere else on the live heating circuit (in my case the downstairs is on a separate zone), then the kitchen kick space heater will run - as the flow temperature available will be sensed as higher than 43 degrees c. If there is cooking or laundry activity in the kitchen, then the kick space may not be required/desirable even though other parts of the ground floor are calling for heat.

Phil

[Chris J Dixon]

Yes Phil, you are correct. I have set my thermostat relatively low, it only kicks in on really cold mornings, as the kitchen is otherwise well enough heated from cooking and solar gain.

The cost of the stat is not high, it is relatively simple to fit at the time of installation, part L will like it, I should go ahead..

Chris

[NT]

There are 2 types of stat, bimetal and electronic. Bimetals are more reliable and far cheaper. A bimetal stat is almost just a switch, and goes in the live line. I say almost as bimetals do need a neutral connection (for an internal compensation device). Check the current rating of the stat's contacts is upto the heater load - with HW run heaters it will be, and if you want to be a perfectionist add a snubber across the stat switch.

NT

[ARWadsworth]

I am pretty sure that there is still the option to turn the kickspace heater off with the switches using the switches on the front of them when the heating is on. You certainly can with my parents heater.

If you do install a thermostat then it is just a case of running a cable (usually 3 core and earth) from the fused spur to the stat and the switched live from the stat is then used as the live for the heater and connected with a piece of strip connector behind the fused spur.

Personally I think that installing a room stat is a good idea. Who needs to heat a kitchen on a winters night if you are sat in the lounge and you can do away with all that bending down to turn them on and off.

Cheers

Adam

[Spamlet]

Yes, that's the way ours work. They have a cold setting too though and as they are below the sink cupboard, they tend to get knocked on with the toes of anyone working there. How, they do not notice the noise is a mystery.

S

[TheScullster]

Hi Adam

Yes that is an option, but a bit low-tech-and-manual - and not too good on the old back!

Yes I think I've got it. I've drawn up a diagram here

I think is right. There will be a lot going on in my single fused spur box though... Loop in power, loop out power, 3 core and earth stat, 3 core heater supply - will all that fit in a 35mm box? Is it acceptable to stuff a choc-block type connector into the box to join the switch wire? Seems a bit iffy to me!

Thanks

Phil

[ARWadsworth]

which I think is right.

That diagram is the correct way to wire up what you want.

There is nothing wrong with a piece of strip connecter in the backbox. Use a crimp connector if you prefer that.

Cheers

Adam

[TheScullster]

"ARWadsworth" wrote

Thanks Adam

The diagram has been updated to show switching of both live and neutral at the fused spur.

Phil

[TheScullster]

"TheScullster" wrote

Might help if the link to the new diagram was included: