Wiring Fridge via cooker outlet plate

[The Medway Handyman]

Replacing some kitchen units & worktops in a playgroup staff kitchen/restroom today. Old worktop had been drilled to take fridge cable to socket outlet above worktop.

I noticed a Cooker Outlet Plate below the worktop wired to a 45 Amp Cooker Control Unit above - they are not used. Any reason I shouldn't wire the fridge into the Cooker Outlet Plate? It can obviously be switched off if required & it will save drilling the worktop - which always looks messy to me.

On a similar note, is it modifiable to disconnect an old electric cooker from a Cooker Outlet Plate & rewire in a new one in a domestic kitchen. Its replacing like for like, but the kitchen is a special area?

[Brian Reay]

I'm pretty sure that work in a kitchen has to comply with "Part P", which includes it being inspected or completed and "self certified" by someone qualified to do so. Without wishing to appear rude and based on your question, do you think you can comply with this?

Brian

[The Medway Handyman]

AFAIK Part P only applies to domestic premises, so the playgroup job isnt covered.

When replacing like for like, as long as you aren't colour bilnd I can't see a problem. Common sense they used to call it. However, if it is notifiable I simply won't do it - because I'm not 'qualified'.

Having said that, I replace lots of light fittings, switches & sockets, none of which is notifiable under part p. All of the original installations appear to have been done by 'qualified' electricians and some are in a right state - to the point of being dangerous.

I've found terminal screws not done up, earth wires not connected, twisted wires covered in tape etc.

[Lurch]

On Mon, 6 Aug 2007 21:43:44 +0100, "The Medway Handyman" mused:

Yep, the fusing issue. Swap the outlet plate for a single socket.

Modifiable?

No, there is a clause which specifically excludes the above from part p, or there was anyway.

[Lurch]

On Mon, 06 Aug 2007 20:57:57 GMT, "Brian Reay" mused:

In domestic properties only though, or in properties served by a source shared with a domestic property, or 'dwelling'.

[Graham.]

Apart from the fact that it is totally unfused, except for what is in the CU probably 32A. It would be easy to replace the cooker outlet with a single 13A socket, but as to the legal niceties, I don't know.

Well if that is wrong I am guilty as charged!

[The Medway Handyman]

Notifiable :-)

[Brian Reay]

I'm not defending part P, I think it is stupid beyond belief. Plus I am aware of "qualified cowboys". I was simply concerned you may end up with a legal problem. If you are happy the work you propose is exempt, fine. I wasn't looking for a barny.

Brian

[The Medway Handyman]

Neither was I Brian. Sorry if my reply seemed that way, it wasn't intended to.

[John Rumm]

You can - after all it is just another radial circuit. You would need to re-lable the switch, and at the CU. You could have more than one socket beneath the counter if you want, all controlled from the same switch.

A kitchen is not a "special location" however is also included in the scope of part p for things other than like for like swaps. So changing one cooker for another would not be notifiable.

[Mike P]

.. >Brian Reay wrote: .. >> "The Medway Handyman" wrote in .. >> message news:f98161$uq1$ [e-mail]... .. >>> Replacing some kitchen units & worktops in a playgroup staff .. >>> kitchen/restroom today. Old worktop had been drilled to take fridge .. >>> cable to socket outlet above worktop. .. >>>

.. >>> I noticed a Cooker Outlet Plate below the worktop wired to a 45 Amp .. >>> Cooker Control Unit above - they are not used. Any reason I .. >>> shouldn't wire the fridge into the Cooker Outlet Plate? It can .. >>> obviously be switched off if required & it will save drilling the .. >>> worktop - which always looks messy to me. .. >>>

.. >>> On a similar note, is it modifiable to disconnect an old electric .. >>> cooker from a Cooker Outlet Plate & rewire in a new one in a .. >>> domestic kitchen. Its replacing like for like, but the kitchen is a .. >>> special area? .. >>

.. >> I'm pretty sure that work in a kitchen has to comply with "Part P", .. >> which includes it being inspected or completed and "self certified" .. >> by someone qualified to do so. Without wishing to appear rude and .. >> based on your question, do you think you can comply with this? .. >

.. >AFAIK Part P only applies to domestic premises, so the playgroup job isnt .. >covered. .. >

.. >When replacing like for like, as long as you aren't colour bilnd I can't see .. >a problem. Common sense they used to call it. However, if it is notifiable .. >I simply won't do it - because I'm not 'qualified'. .. >

.. >Having said that, I replace lots of light fittings, switches & sockets, none .. >of which is notifiable under part p. All of the original installations .. >appear to have been done by 'qualified' electricians and some are in a right .. >state - to the point of being dangerous. .. >

.. >I've found terminal screws not done up, earth wires not connected, twisted .. >wires covered in tape etc.

If I remove a ceiling light pull switch in a bedroom and tape the wires separately, then push them up into the ceiling void and plaster over ........... is that a no no ?

Mike P

[Owain]

Yes that is a no no.

The ends of the wires must be terminated in an incombustible enclosure; by removing the visible accessory you may be contravening the regs regarding unprotected wiring in permitted zones; and it's bad practice to leave live wires running to hidden dead ends.

Owain

[John Rumm]

You can terminate them in a junction box and poke that up into the cavity. (still better to disconnect the switch wire at the ceiling rose though if not being used).

[Owain]

Only if it remains accessible, which it might not after being plastered over...

Owain

[John Rumm]

Well, it will be from under the floor above (or loft). The need to be able to inspect and tighten the terminals seems to be rather moot in this case anyway.

[Mike P]

.. >Mike P wrote: .. >

.. >> If I remove a ceiling light pull switch in a bedroom and tape the .. >> wires separately, then push them up into the ceiling void and plaster .. >> over ........... is that a no no ? .. >

.. >You can terminate them in a junction box and poke that up into the .. >cavity. (still better to disconnect the switch wire at the ceiling rose .. >though if not being used).

Ok .... deed done ... .... plastering done... wrist slapped.

I will disconnect it from the ceiling rose.

Mike P