wiring for oven

Hi,
I would appreciate any advice from anyone who knows a little about wiring ovens.
I am installing a new kichen with the following ovens :-
single electric oven 2.8kw max load microwave/oven combination 3.6Kw max load
The installation instructions for the microwave oven suggest a all-pole 3mm contact gap disconnection device with a 16 amp fuse. I have two questions :-
1. Can I run both appliances spured off the kitchen ring main (2.5mm cable) ? Does this depend on how many other appliances etc.. on the ring main or is it just not allowed to connect a 3.6kw appliance permenently to a ring main ?
(I do have a unused 45 amp cable from the old kitchen (left in place in case some future owner wants to be all electric) coming up from the floor but hanging loose at floor level. I could run the 3.6kw oven off from this cabke as one alterative to using the ring main)
2. Can I put the 3.6kw oven dual-pole switch inside an accessable cupboard so it is not visible or does this go against the regs ?
Many thanks
Pete
Pete
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Hi,
If you have a dedicated cooker feed, you might as well use it! Not sure about switches in cupboards tho' Bax

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If you already have a cooker cable coming from the fuse box, then use it to run both appliances. The cooker cable should be thick (6mm cross sectional area) and be able to take up to 45 amps current, which is more than enough to run both these appliances from.
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"Peter" wrote | single electric oven 2.8kw max load | microwave/oven combination 3.6Kw max load | The installation instructions for the microwave oven suggest a | all-pole 3mm contact gap disconnection device with a 16 amp fuse. | I have two questions :- | 1. Can I run both appliances spured off the kitchen ring main (2.5mm | cable) ? Does this depend on how many other appliances etc.. on the | ring main or is it just not allowed to connect a 3.6kw appliance | permenently to a ring main ?
13 A at 240V is 3.1kW (resistive load) so you cannot run this through a 13A fuse. You cannot have an unfused appliance on a ring main designed for BS1363 13A plugs, so you will have to have a dedicated circuit.
| (I do have a unused 45 amp cable from the old kitchen (left in place | in case some future owner wants to be all electric) coming up from the | floor but hanging loose at floor level. I could run the 3.6kw | oven off from this cabke as one alterative to using the ring main)
You would probably do best to use the 45A cooker feed for *both* ovens; it will have ample capacity and take them off the ring, which may be especially relevant if you already have other high load appliances on the ring (washer, tumble, dishwasher, deepfryer, etc).
However it will be awkward to fuse this down to 16A at the combi oven if you use the cable to supply both ovens. (You could fairly easily take the MCB down to 16A in the consumer unit if you can get a compatible replacement, if you were using the 45A circuit for the combi only.) You can fuse it down for the single oven using a 13A FCU as normal.
Possibly the neatest way would be to give the combi-oven a dedicated 16A circuit terminating on a BS4343 blue 16A industrial socket.
| 2. Can I put the 3.6kw oven dual-pole switch inside an accessable | cupboard so it is not visible or does this go against the regs ?
I wouldn't regard inside a cupboard, or otherwise not visible, as accessible. You will require a DP isolator for *both* the single and the combi ovens; the same switch can suffice for both provided it is within 2 metres of each, i.e.
COMBI ---2m--- SW ---2m--- OVEN is acceptable
If you can't get that arrangement then you need separate switches each within 2m of the appliance it controls.
Owain
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