Most decent projects combined learning new skills with hopefully a useful object at the end. One of ours was a dustpan - so all the tinplate skills. My mother was still using it some 40 years later. ;-)
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember NT saying something like:
What about the Golden Rivet?
M41
Take a look at
SteveW
Aswering my own post, I propose you do not add these to the wiki. As they are a bit specialised.
Dave
The M41 was a surprise, I suspected it would be a lot further South.
I don't recognise it, but I was quite young when I was taken to exebitions and steam rallies. My brother was into model engineering and he used to take me around with him, but he is 11 years older than me, I never knew where we went.
Dave
To me it's always been just our local park (I lived only half a mile further away when I was still at my parents) - typical small park really, except for the railway. They do a steam fair there on the first May bank holiday, with various traction engines and vintage vehicles - which tend to dig holes in the road outside with their tow hitches, as the bridge over the railway into the park is so steep!
As you say you don't recognise it, I assume that you were/are from somewhere around the region.
SteveW
Yes, from 1946 until 1978, I lived just up the road in Oldham. I forgot to mention that in my last post. I'm in Preston, Lancs now.
Dave
What's this? Is it to just fill spurious holes? cant see how it holds pars together.
Yikes... not if you want a decent joint. Hammering won't pull the two parts together, doing this will usually result in a loose joint. You should use a pair of clamps either side of the rivet location to firmly clamp the parts together. The rivet expands diameterwise as you hit it, including the bit in the small gap between unclamped parts. That expanded disk will prevent any subsequent attempts to squeeze the parts together.
Cleanliness is important as grit trapped between the parts will weaken the joint.
If you are doing serious riveting where a number of rivets are used along a joint line, you can get* neat little clamps that are inserted through each hole (needing access from one side only) to pull the job together. Then one is removed at a time and a replaced with a rivet.
Also you don't rest on an anvil as the a head has to be formed on both sides, you use a 'set' held in the vice for the dome head and another set to form a dome on the tail (you hammer on the tail not the dome end).
Rivet length: Correct length is important as the tail needs to be just the volume needed to form the head.
Head types Countersunk heads should be used for the countersinking described earlier.
.... because they shrink on cooling to achieve a tighter joint.
I believe this is only possible if you use csk head rivets. It is the norm for aircraft ally skin fabrication.
Essential to use correct set to match the rivet head if you want an engineering joint, ie different ones for different rivet diameters.
Of course for a DIY job, just hammering on the tail may be good enough! -- Phil
I was confused with this in the original post until just after I wrote my explanation of what it means.
Take any rivet and it will have a pre formed head. In the case of pop rivets, it will have a mandrill that protrudes through the head and the other end of the mandrill will have a bulb type shape. This end of the rivet is known as the tail. The mandills come in 2 types, break stem and break head (not to be confused with the true head of the rivet that has the pre formed shape. See my original post regards how the two types work.
I described a way of drilling off and rivetting a job with lots of rivets some years ago. Basically, you drill off the holes, but leave some below size. Strip the job apart and clean up after de burring. Put the joint back together with the interfay, if any, between the joint and then use under sized rivets to hold the job in tight contact. Fit most of the rivets and drill out the tack rivets, open the holes up to final size and rivet up.
If you want to do this the posh way for hand rivetting :-)
Professionally, the rivets are gunned from the head side using a pneumatic rivetter. The tails are usually left without a dome.
As a general guide, the tail of the rivet should stick out of the back of the job about 1.5 to 1.75 times the diam. of the rivet. Certainly no more, this goes for pop rivets as well. This should give you a good tail.
Yup, they look much the same, but the difference is they break in 2 different places. The reslt is that with one type the whole mandrel drops out after fitting, leaving a central hole, but with the other type the head/tail/etc part of the mandrel is retained, so no hole to see through. I wish I knew the correct terms for these.
NT
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