Wiki: One tube under cupboard lighting

[meow2222]

Feedback welcome

NT

One tube under cupboard lighting

This article compares the use of one single long fluorescent tube for kitch= en under cupboard lighting with the more common use of several small ones.

=3D=3DHow its done=3D=3D The tube is mounted in two tool clips, 1" for T8 tubes upto 6', 1.5" for T1=

2 8' tubes. Where the tube crosses the sides of each cupboard, the bottom o= f the side is trimmed to let the tube pass. Screwing the clips to the front= rather than the underside lets the tube sit slightly higher, the tube is t= hen removed by moving it rearward a little.

The ballast is mounted wherever convenient, eg on top of a cupboard. Its es= sential that it be a dimmable electronic ballast, with matching dimmer cont= rol.

Standard [[fluorescent]] ceiling fittings are much too bulky, and lack the = essential dimming feature.

=3D=3DComparison=3D=3D of single tube lighting with use of several small tubes

=3D=3D=3DLight quality=3D=3D=3D Miniature tubes are available in a very restricted range of CCTs and CRIs. =

4' & 5' T8 tubes and 8' T12s are readily available in a wide range of CCTs = and CRIs, and both phosphor types.

If you decide you don't like your chosen CCT, its very easy to replace a lo= ng tube with one of another CCT. Availability of other CCT miniatures is ve= ry restricted.

Glare: with a single tube, the same anout of light is emitted over a longer= surface, reducing glare if the light is ever seen directly.

=3D=3D=3DControl=3D=3D=3D The controllability of small tubes on standard ballasts is limited to switc= hing some on and some off. Frequently the switching to do this conveniently= is omitted, leaving the user to bend over and look up at the fittings to s= witch some off if desired. Light output is then patchy.

A long tube on a [[dimmer]] can be set to the light output you wish, maximi= sing comfort and utility, and minimising power waste. It can be adjusted ef= fortlessly eg for evening comfort, night time use, or [[cleaning]].

=3D=3D=3DEnergy efficiency=3D=3D=3D

4' & 5' T8 tubes have much higher efficacy than minature tubes. 8' T12s are= even higher efficacy. The right tube choice can yield over 100 lumens per = watt. Running then dimmed reduces this a little, but not a lot. The result = is over twice the [[energy efficiency]].

=3D=3D=3DTube life=3D=3D=3D T8s & T12s last around 20,000 hours on electronic ballasts. Miniatures last= less than half that on real world ballasts.

One long T8 replaces around 4 miniatures, so for every long tube replaced o= ne would get through over 8 miniature tubes.

=3D=3D=3DReliability=3D=3D=3D By far the greatest cause of light loss is tube failure. This happens over =

8x as often with small tubes. One small tube failed has less effect than a = large one. In either case the tube is easily replaced.

Dimming electronic ballasts are generally of higher quality than miniature = tube ballasts. If one fails, you lose more light until its replaced.

Starters also cause many failures. They're easily replaced. Dimmable long t= ube systems don't use them.

T5 miniature tubes are standardised, but T4s aren't. If you use T4s, you ca= n find yourself tied to one supplier, which might stop producing the tubes = or go out of business. Either results in [[lighting]] system failure. This = is not an issue with long T8s and T12s.

=3D=3D=3DCosts=3D=3D=3D Installation: Dimmable T8 ballasts cost several times as much each, but the= re are several times fewer of them. Total cost of fittings is comparable.

A single large tube fitting requires less wiring time.

Long tube systems require around 1/8th as many replacement tubes over time.

Long tube systems consume less than half the [[electricity]] per light outp= ut, and light output is adjustable to exactly the level you want.

=3D=3D=3DSafety=3D=3D=3D Where the tube passes over the sink, with a long tube there is no [[electri= cal]] connection of any kind (as long as the sink is not at the end of the = worktop run), completely solving the [[water]] splash issue.

FWLIW a long tube has about 1/4 as many electrical connection points, reduc= ing the miniscule risk of a blender food splash becoming live.

=3D=3D=3DOther=3D=3D=3D Far more shops stock 4' & 5' tubes than miniatures, making things more conv= enient. On the other hand storing a spare long tube is less convenient, but= their widespread availability makes this less necessary.

Less [[heat]] output means less discolouring of [[kitchen]] units over time= .

Worktop lighting by long tube is more even.

=3D=3DSee also=3D=3D [[Fluorescent Lighting]] [[Fluorescent Lighting#The Many Different Whites|CCT & CRI]] [[Fluorescent Lighting#|efficacy]]

other undercounter lighting options:

*[[LED]] *[[CFL]] *[[Halogen]] *[[Filament lamp]]

[[Category:Lighting]] [[Category:Kitchen]]

[Bert Coules]

That should be "it's". And surely it's not actually essential? It might be desirable, but essential? Why?

Bert

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Bert Coules writes

Unless I missed it you haven't covered the tube electrical connections.

I still think some protection from mechanical damage might be necessary. Not so much flying food from the processor but the act of lumping it out of the cupboard and setting it up. Top fed it won't be under the tube anyway but the average housewife will be totally unaware of a 5' length of 1" thin wall glass tube just out of sight.

[Graham.]

The last time I used separate end-caps for florescent tubes, they didn't have satisfactory cable clamps / strain relief for use where they could be accidentally touched.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

You can buy cables with moulded on plugs.

[meow2222]

I've added a note on that. I assumed why you don't want 2x 6' tubes in a medium kitchen just over the worktop was obvious, but I've seen so many make that sort of mistake.

I don't know out what you mean by 'covered'

I'm not seeing a problem. Surely no sane person is going to deliberately hit a long glass light bulb when they can just lift it out.

you lost me

What do they think light comes from?

Maybe I'm too tired, I'm not following much of this.

NT

[Owain]

I don't expect they think too much about it; it just happens.

In the same way that things like dusting and ironing just happen (or not, in this house).

Owain

[Bert Coules]

It's certainly not obvious to me. Would you care to explain?

I'd say the mistake is to assume that what you want is what everybody else wants.

Bert

[Adam Aglionby]

chen under cupboard lighting with the more common use of several small ones= .

T12 8' tubes. Where the tube crosses the sides of each cupboard, the bottom= of the side is trimmed to let the tube pass. Screwing the clips to the fro= nt rather than the underside lets the tube sit slightly higher, the tube is= then removed by moving it rearward a little.

Wouldn`t ever recommend T12 for any sort of new installation, the tubes are getting rare

What happened to T5....

essential that it be a dimmable electronic ballast, with matching dimmer co= ntrol.

e essential dimming feature.

Dimming fluro is a whole different subject, nut dimming by switching groups is often what you actually end up with in a kitchen.

. 4' & 5' T8 tubes and 8' T12s are readily available in a wide range of CCT= s and CRIs, and both phosphor types.

T12 is getting shown the door along with frosted GLS

long tube with one of another CCT. Availability of other CCT miniatures is = very restricted.

er surface, reducing glare if the light is ever seen directly.

tching some on and some off. Frequently the switching to do this convenient= ly is omitted, leaving the user to bend over and look up at the fittings to= switch some off if desired. Light output is then patchy.

mising comfort and utility, and minimising power waste. It can be adjusted = effortlessly eg for evening comfort, night time use, or [[cleaning]].

But don`t react same as halogen on a dimmer, will only dim to 10-25% of full brightness and have some hysteris , start at 25% before dimming below

re even higher efficacy. The right tube choice can yield over 100 lumens pe= r watt. Running then dimmed reduces this a little, but not a lot. The resul= t is over twice the [[energy efficiency]].

of what ...?

st less than half that on real world ballasts.

one would get through over 8 miniature tubes.

r 8x as often with small tubes. One small tube failed has less effect than = a large one. In either case the tube is easily replaced.

e tube ballasts. If one fails, you lose more light until its replaced.

tube systems don't use them.

Good T5s on decent ballast should run 30K hours plus with a wide range of colours available, dimmable ballasts aren`t that rare if you shop on ebay, but limping them in with T4 is not realistic,.

., but T4s aren't. If you use T4s, you can find yourself tied to one supplier, which might stop producing the tubes or go out of business. Either results in [[lighting]] system failure. This is not an issue with long T8s and T12s.

here are several times fewer of them. Total cost of fittings is comparable.

tput, and light output is adjustable to exactly the level you want.

Against what Linestra?

Few unquantifiables and ignoring T5 which is now available at sub ruinous cost with enclosed fittings,.

Cheers Adam

rical]] connection of any kind (as long as the sink is not at the end of th= e worktop run), completely solving the [[water]] splash issue.

ucing the miniscule risk of a blender food splash becoming live.

nvenient. On the other hand storing a spare long tube is less convenient, b= ut their widespread availability makes this less necessary.

[dennis]

You can even get "waterproof" ones (to use on aquaria). I have used complete ballasts with moulded in flying leads in the past.

[meow2222]

Well, putting a pair of 5 or 6 foot tubes in a kitchen best suited to a single

4' tube, and concentrating the light onto the worktop area, its not going to be too pleasant. 2x65w fluoros is roughly equiv to something like 600w of incandescent

:)

NT

[Bert Coules]

But you're continuing to apply your own standards to everybody else. My late father, who suffered from severe macular degeneration and its attendant near-blindness, was able to continue life in his own home only because he had exactly the sort of light levels which you're deriding as "not too pleasant".

Bert

[Tim Lamb]

Sorry. I meant explained. Perhaps I don't get out enough but I haven't come across suitable free flying connectors.

I was trying to envisage the sort of activities that take place under the average worktop cupboard. Kettle; lift off to use, coffee machine; drip jug lives on top, food blender; ours only just clears the bottom of the pelmet and the glass jug needs lifting off during use.

Jug type blender. You stuff the food in the top. Not normally enough space under the cupboard so not done.

Magic. It comes from that switch on the wall:-)

[polygonum]

The thinness of an LED strip is an advantage in this regard.

That is yet another reason I shall be going for LEDs when we address the rest of the kitchen lighting. IMHO, for us, anything else is madness. But I do understand different situations require different answers and there are many opinions.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I've got a single 1" tube system running under my cupboards, which go round a corner, so actually two tubes.

I've not found it 'too bright' nor has anyone else ever said so. But I suppose if you are intending using those feeble LED devices, it would appear bright.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Sounds like the cupboards are too low. And if you already smash these things into the underside of the cupboards I can understand your reluctance to fit fluorescent tubes. I only hope your LEDs are more robust.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Can you get an LED strip that matches the evenness and intensity of a decent 1" tube? I realise you'll not get one to match the colour temperature.

[Tim Lamb]

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

The LEDs remain to be discovered. The T5 fittings I have in mind have polycarbonate covers, I think!

>

[polygonum]

Evenness? Well - ours are lots of small LEDs so are not strictly a continuous smooth light source, but on non-specular surfaces, they are pretty even.

Intensity? No - it probably does not match intensity. But we are probably going to end up with continuous light under all cupboards, so overall, they will be pretty good but not as bright as FL under all cupboards - but that was never an option.

Colour is, shall we say, acceptable. Although claiming 2700K, the do seem to have much more in the shorter wavelengths than an ordinary incandescent lamp ever had. A touch too yellow.

It is with these modest reservations that we will be looking further - but nonetheless very impressed.

[Andy Wade]

(i) The ballast and the mains connections to it would need to be suitably enclosed (see also BS 7671 reg. 559.7 re. independent control gear).

(ii) How do you propose to connect the ballast outputs to the lampholders, given that single-insulated wire (basic insulation) will not comply with the wiring regs?

And the title seems to refer to placing some kind of tube under one's cupboard lighting. 'Single-tube under-cupboard lighting' is what we're talking about.