If the flex goes round a indoor doorpost and I pull the flex then I am not putting much strain on it at all.
I will have to live in sin then! :-)
The cable on my fan heater is about 4 to 5 foot and is too short to be used whre I want it to be.
I want it to extend it to about 10 foot.
It is the best but sometimes it is too long a job to open up the appliance and to attach the new flex cores because of the way user- unfriendly way in which the appliance has been designed.
ISTR there was a time when the different twists had their own names. Maybe they still do.
Wasn't something like "Western Roll" one such name???
Then a regular extension cord will work fine.
I did write "normal" - which you too seem to think is inadequate, as you use adhesive heatshrink.
Whether it will go on the drum neatly depends on the size of the cable and the drum.
I've used similar techniques to the one you mention where cable replacement was impractical, eg re-joining the command and power cable of a tethered submersible. That has been good enough to survive a few weeks of fairly deep salt water immersion, etc. But the repair only ever lasted a few weeks, no matter how carefully it was done. The cable alarm would inevitably sound and the fault was inevitably at the join.. So no way was it as good as the original cable, unjoined.
I don't know if the safety break was a regulatory requirement, although it was pretty universal. Does your Bosch have active breaking (stops dead when you release the handle)? I guess that would do the same thing, although the active breaking on two lawnmowers I have both stopped working after a couple of years, and now the blades just spin down under their own momentum when the trigger is released.
Yes it will but it s clumsy and inconvenient to get out each time!
I have been doing it for years too (without the heatshrink).
I am genuinely quite surprised that there are so many posts worrying quite deeply about safety.
Of course what I want to do is less good than having a single piece of flex. But this is not exactly HIGH risk in the circumstances I want to use it the appliances in.
That would be active braking.
break =/= brake
Graham
Judging from his words, in Andrew's case it does appear that the brake had been actively breaking...
Then stop bodging things and install a proper, permanent socket where it is needed.
Owain
On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 20:21:07 +0100, Coleman mused:
Make the join at the end near to the appliance so it's not dragged around corners all the time.
You are a d*****ad. What part of "I'm sorry sir. Due to your haphazard electrical 'repairs' your insurance does not cover the total loss of your home" did you fail to understand?
Can you give some examples of this in the UK? It would be very difficult to prove in a court of law.
Yes.
Not sure that's relevant -- I've never seen a [UK] policy which excludes this anyway. Actually, policies often explicitly include cover for DIY accidents.
Bit drastic?
I didn't see the beginning of this thread, but a technique that I frequently use when joining wires is as follows. Look at the diagrams in Courier New font, or they won't make much sense.
--------------
------------------- Cable +---- wire_1 --------------------+ Cable sheath +----------- wire_2 -------------+ sheath +-------------------- wire_3 ----+
--------------
---------------------
Firstly, strip a piece of the outer cable sheath off and put it to one side to use later. Then cut the wires as shown in the diagram. Bare the ends of the wires, and solder the two ends of wire_1 together, and the same for the other wires. Because the wires were cut to different lengths in this way, the soldered joints are not close to each other, and cannot short together.
Now take the piece of sheath that you put to one side, slit it down the side, and put it over the new joints. At this point, the cable should look almost as if it had never been worked on.
-------------- -------------------------------------------------
------------------- Cable | This is the piece of sheath that you | Cable sheath | kept to one side, now used to | sheath | cover the joint |
-------------- -------------------------------------------------
---------------------
Now wind some electrician's tape around the full length of the sheath that you have inserted, and an inch or so beyond each end. Better still would be if you had slipped a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the wire before soldering it together. The heat-shrink tubing should be about two inches longer than the piece of sheathing you used to cover the joints. _________________________________________________________________
---------/ / / / / / / /----------- / / / Taped up with electrician's tape / / ----/ / / / / / /____ / / / / / / / /
----------/_________________________________________________________________/------------
I have used the same technique on multi-wire cable - most recently on an Ethernet cable that I had to cut to get through a small hole, then join together again, because I didn't have the tool to put the connector back on. In this case, with 8 wires, the total length of the connection was about 4 inches.
MikeC
-------------------
---------------------
----------/_________________________________________________________________/------------
Fine for signal cables.
Lethal for mains flex.
The method provides virtually no strain relief for the conductors. Which a continuous outer sheath provides as well as insulation.
Subject to even a modest pull, the conductors or soldered joints will fail, potentially leading to a bare live conductor.
Any means of jointing mains flex has to provide strain relief for the conductors comparable to that provided by the outer sheath of the original cable.
It would also be ok for fixed house wiring in the uk, although heatshrink would be a more appropriate sleeving material than insulating tape.
Yup. If you had some form of enclosure with cord clamps though then it would be fine.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.