Which screws for drywall studwork

In article , Tim Lamb writes

There's always one ;-)

How dull, my ones are the right way round . . .

Reply to
fred
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Torx drive like these:

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you've tried them, Phillips/Pozi will always seem like second best.

Reply to
mike

Whack em in with enough force and the thread strips on the first bit and the second bit pulls in quite nicely. Sounds like you are being too gentle!

Reply to
John Rumm

My poor old 9.6V battery drill obviously isn't up to the job ;-(

Reply to
Dave Osborne

Try it with a decent 18V impact driver or combi/drill driver and it just keeps turning until something gives... usually the wood!

Reply to
John Rumm

fred coughed up some electrons that declared:

I just got a box - they look very nice. Tomorrow I shall try them, when I have taken my portable automatic voice controlled wood holding devices[1] down to the house.

[1] SWMBO and nephew. They also do plasterboard :)

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

fred coughed up some electrons that declared:

Thenaks for the tip - built some of the studwork today and those screws did exactly what you said.

Very easy drive, even with a small electric driver in 100x50 PAR.

My only extra tip is: if dring in at 45 degerees for some joints, it's best to part drive, remove and countersink the hole, then replace and drive in fully, if you need to lose the heads completely.

Maybe not necessary on stud work wood, but PAR can get on the point of splitting.

But they have a marvellous hold and self-drill almost effortlessly.

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

In article , Tim S writes

Glad you liked them, the easy drive means you can get by on mere mortals' tools.

Agreed if you really need to lose the head but no real need I think for studwork, you can waste a lot of time on purely cosmetic issues that just get hidden under plasterboard.

Also, when I was doing 45deg, I drove a tiny bit at 90deg to break the surface then pushed it round to 45 to continue the drive. Heads were then buried on the close side, a little showing on the outside but with no hint of movement (or splitting).

Reply to
fred

fred coughed up some electrons that declared:

Yes indeed. They drive totally well with one of these:

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occasionally do I need to tweak the last bit by hand, but that's usually for the 45 degree ones.

Yep. I'd have to add that I'm not lining the inside of this, only the outside - so I might fill the holes and run a sander over the wood for a nicer finish. It's an airing/tank cupboard (big one) so no point in wasting internal space :)

I found I had a hex bit countersink so I could swap that into my cordless screwdriver for the countersink operation.

That's how I started. I did bury a couple of heads like this, but it was a bit random - the wood was from two different suppliers, so may have variable hardness.

On an aside, Wickes PAR seems good. First lot came from the builder's yard, but when I need the odd extra 3 bits I grab from Wickes as it's easier.

Anyway, here's the 80% complete result:

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(for me - I hated woodwork at school) it's actually straight, close fitting and I can swing on it without anything moving. Took me the better part of two days - but that was doing the design partly on the fly.

As always, getting the first 2-3 in to set the tone took longer - the cross pieces took a few minutes to measure, chop and fit. The funny half-shelf on the right was a bastard because I needed to try and blend it into the stairs so it looked right, and they're not exactly at 90 degrees to the back wall.

Using a cross self levelling laser saved loads of effort in setting up. A plumb line (or laser) would have helped for a couple of bits, but I managed without.

I used a bit of DPC under the bottom bearers and big-arsed frame fixings into the concrete. Top bearer in screwed to ceiling joists, but as I had to tap the verticals in, it's now added stiffness to the ceiling.

The thermal store goes on the left - the tank base is 18mm WBP softwood ply

750x750mm on 2 off 44x94 PAR stacked side on (one being the bottom bearer at the front. The back bearer and middle bearer (not there yet cos I ran out of wood) aren't fixed to the floor - just screwed to the ply. It's not going to move as it's screwed to the front and after it gets 1/4 ton of tank on it, it's not moving anywhere. Possibly downwards - we'll see how good the concrete is! ;->

The reason for raising the tank off the floor is a) The floor is damp - here it can breath; b) It should be high enough that I can give it a permanant

40mm drain under the drain c*ck which will save a bit of faffing whenever I need to drain the system.

The left side "door" is more of an access to the tank and might be floor to ceiling height. The middle opening is the real personal door, no bottom bearer there so I can run the floor tiles in smoothly. The right side, and over the door will be pannelled, probably in the same finish as the door (eg maybe all T+G planks, so the doors blend in - I can make some lightweight doors out of the same stuff). The right end will be plasterboarded and joined to the stair sides, except for the shelf, which I fancy a plank or two of some fancy polished wood to make a cill like shelf - a few pot plants halfway up the stairs, or something poncy like that :)

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

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