Which Damp Proof Membrane for Wood floor on Concrete

[KiTT]

OK - I know this is an frequently asked question, I have read previous posts but mine is more specific.

We have a concrete floor, it was laid 6 months ago, I intend to get a moisture detector and test that it is dry.

I am going to buy some Oak floor (solid wood).

Now what membrane should I put between the concrete and the wood. The wood floor company is trying to flog me Mapeproof ESM which is a kind of 2 part resin, the problem is that it is very pricey, over =A3400 for the 40m2 that I have to cover. Also it sounds like a nightmare to put down.

So I am considering some kind of polythene sheeting followed by underlay with peel and stick glue patches.

Sound OK?

Any advice on this would be great.

Cheers,

Chris

[RW]

We have a concrete floor, it was laid 6 months ago, I intend to get a moisture detector and test that it is dry.

I am going to buy some Oak floor (solid wood).

Now what membrane should I put between the concrete and the wood. The wood floor company is trying to flog me Mapeproof ESM which is a kind of 2 part resin, the problem is that it is very pricey, over £400 for the 40m2 that I have to cover. Also it sounds like a nightmare to put down.

So I am considering some kind of polythene sheeting followed by underlay with peel and stick glue patches.

Sound OK?

Any advice on this would be great.

So lemme get this right....

You are *almost* sticking a quality product to a moving substrate with glue patches.

Send the video to You've been framed when you fall arse over tit as the floor moves

[Tim S]

RW coughed up some electrons that declared:

Might want to fix your newsreader's quoting - I can't tell who said what...

[Tanner-'op]

Not a good idea Chris to put a wood floor down directly onto polythene sheeting - if there's a DPM already under the concrete (and there should be), then that will be sufficient to stop any rising damp.

If you intend sticking the oak directly to the concrete, then use a proprietary floor adhesive to do the job - if this is a parquet type floor, then use hot bitument to stick the pieces down (the old method).

Tanner-'op

[KiTT]

Yes - that is a good point, it is a new floor with a DPM so I guess sealing it with another membrane would be overkill.

But I am still a little confused. What about underlay? Are you saying I shouldn't bother, just glue straight onto the concrete.

Cheers,

Chris

[Martin Bonner]

Are you sure you want the floor glued to the concrete? The problem is that the wood is going to change size by several percent between summer and winter. The forces generated when the glue tries to resist that, will just tear the glue. Better to let the floor float, and expand into the expansion gap under the skirting board.

[Tanner-'op]

Chris,

Could I ask what type of 'wood' floor you're intending to lay?

If it's the modern day, manufactured thin laminate floor, then I would suggest that you use the proprietary laying method as specified my the makers of the stuff as this is usually laid 'loose'.

If it's a truly 'real' hardwood floor (parquet blocks etc) then it's perfectly feasible to 'stick' these down to a dry, concrete surface - or, if its tongued and grooved 'real' hardwood floor, then it's usual to 'sink' timber grounds into the concrete (or screed) at the relevant spacings and nail the floor to this.

Tanner-'op

[Man at B&Q]

The walls tend to hold it in place, apart from a small expansion gap. Why do you think it's going to move?

MBQ