Where to buy quality tools.

[Justin C]

I'm sick and tired of cheap an crappy tools. In future, when I need something new, I want to buy something decent that will last. I had some CK bought for me by my Grandfather when I was a teenager, they lasted well, but, after 30-something years I no longer have them all (where did they go?) and some are damaged. Those CK I've seen more recently haven't been the same.

Other tools I've bought recently (and not so recently) have come from B&Q, and, for the most part, have been sh**. I didn't realise how bad they were until I was lent a SnapOn screw-driver last year, it felt very different and was a pleasure to use.

So I don't want to give B&Q any more money for rubbish tools. Where do I find good quality tools? What manufacturers should I be looking out for?

On a related note, I need to refurbish the windows on my boat, they're aluminium frames with stainless-steel book-screws. The corrosion between the two in a salt-water environment has meant that every single one is seized solid. I've been told, to drill them out, I'll need tungsten-carbide drill bits, so I'm looking for a good quality brand for those. (40 to drill out, I am not looking forward to that). I was recommended to start gently with a small bit, to make a dimple for a large drill so it doesn't wander (that wouldn't do a fibreglass boat a lot of good).

Thank you for your suggestions.

Justin.

[harryagain]

Unfortunately price is no guide these days for tools. If it's cheap it will be crap. But buying expensive doesn't neccesarily mean excellence.

The best thing you can do is take a wander round the car boot sales. Old stuff that is still in working order is usually good. (Hand tools) Maybe don't buy power tools there though.

You will struggle drillling out any hard screws from a softer material. The drill will "slide" off into the soft stuff. Surprised aluminium is used in any salt water environment. Maybe the application of heat + WD40 might get them moving? Aluminium expands more the SS. & put back with silicon grease to make future removal easier.

My guess is though you will need an angle grinder and everything will have to be replaced. Aluminium and SS.

[The Medway Handyman]

Cobalt.

[Martin Brown]

You might get away with a sacrificial tile drill to get a start hole and then switch to a hardened toolsteel bolt extractor and hope it can get enough purchase. I don't fancy your chances of drilling them out.

Some bolt extractors are better than others - you are really up against it with stainless steel in aluminium and fibreglass.

Soaking them in penetrating oil for a month and prayer might work.

[dennis]

Are the heads recessed or on the surface?

What sort of head do they have? If its a slot have you damaged them or do you just need a screwdriver bit in a T bar from a socket set on each side? Don't forget that a slight tightening at first often makes seized stuff easier to unscrew.

Bosch multi construction drills are tungsten carbide tipped

but cobalt drills are probably a better bet

You can buy either in smaller sizes than toolstation sell if they are too big.

[Capitol]

Use diamond core drills for this job. Slow, but effective. Very cheap from Amazon.

[Adam Aglionby]

Ebay, but not for Snap-On that carries a ludicrous premium. Facom, Elora , Gedore, Beta, King Dick, Stahlwille, Draper Expert for sockets and spanners, Halfords pro range is actually quite good.

Wera and Wiha for screwdrivers

Bahco for pliers and adjustable wrenches

[Justin C]

Countersunk with a slight dome. I think they're also known as 'inter-screws', here are some (mine are quite a bit shorter):

Both sides are countersunk and slightly domed. The outer portion is knurled to grip the fibreglass, but apply too much turning force and that'll strip, and then there's nothing to stop the inner and outer turning together. Only one part has a slotted head, the sleeve end is outside the boat and is smooth, I suppose to avoid any rough parts for chafing lines or places to collect dirt. The slot in the head is very narrow, I have one screwdriver that won't even enter the slot, another only penetrates part way. I have damaged a few of the heads trying to get them out.

I might attack a cheap screwdriver with a grinder to make the tip fit the slot. I've caused damage due to the screwdriver not seating in the slot.

That's the second recommendation. I'll make a note.

Thanks for the reply.

Justin.

[Justin C]

I don't think that's appropriate. What I'm wanting to remove are screws with a diameter of about 6 or 8mm. I don't want to make bigger holes in my boat!

Justin.

[Justin C]

Following up self with a bit of a summary. WRT the job in hand the consensus seems to be "I'm glad it's you and not me". Not sure if I mentioned it, but there are 40 of the buggers to come out - boat windows are well seated and fixed, the boat can flex hundreds, even thousands of times a day and they need to be well fixed to ensure water doesn't get in. In addition, they're bedded with silicon everywhere to ensure water doesn't penetrate. When the silicon starts breaking down (35yo boat) after years of summer and frost cycling, freash and salt water start penetrating and the dis-similar metals react... badly.

With 40 of these to remove the anglegrinder option is starting to look more appealing - probably the easier option, but considerably more expensive with 4 windows[1] to replace.

Thank you for your thoughts. I've not given up on getting more leverage on my screwdriver, but you can bet that of 40 there'll be a percentage that won't budge even then - and getting penetrating oil in, past all the silicon, might be difficult, so I could end up with an anglegrinder and trash my frames anyway.

There's a saying among boat owners: Sailing is like standing in a cold shower tearing up £50 notes. Today feels like one of those days.

Justin.

1. Really must remember to call them portlights, otherwise I sound just like a lubber.

[alan_m]

As does shock, by hitting the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer.

Often used on stubborn screws in a automotive environment, an impact driver

OR

[alan_m]

[Capitol]

Diamond core drills go down to 1mm at least.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

If you want decent quality tools at a good price, Lidl (and possibly Aldi) are your best bet. But you do need to keep an eye out for when they're on offer, which means you can't just go out and get them when needed.

Other decent high street supplier is Halfords and their Pro range. But they are much more expensive than Lidl.

[MM]

I've bought a few good tools from Screwfix in the past year. A pretty decent pop-rivet gun, a Irwin/Record 36 inch F-clamp, and several other items. You can buy the same things on Amazon, but usually the price differential is not significant, plus you have to wait for the tool to be delivered. As I can jump in the car and be at Screwfix in

25 minutes, that's far more convenient. The F-clamp, for example, was £17.99 and is as sturdy as you'll find, in my opinion.

On the other hand, I bought a cheap plastic mitre box from Wilko recently and it's better (for me) than sawing freehand (not for mitres, just for 90 deg sawing). My tenon saw was getting blunt (that was a Homebase one, ten years old), so again I went to Wilko to buy a new one for a fiver.

With some things you can get away with the cheap-as-chips approach; others not so well.

MM