B and Q? Or will I have to look more local?
All the floorboards in my room are different sizes - I guess I will have to give them exact measurements? (width, height and thickness?) and they can cut them to order?
Is there a cheap material you can buy to put on top of floorboards to make the floor totally flat?
You are joking? There are specialists who will make floorboards to match old ones, but not usually on a board-by-board basis.
Plywood. But if the floor is that irregular it might be better to replace the whole lot.
| B and Q? Or will I have to look more local? | | All the floorboards in my room are different sizes - I guess I will have to | give them exact measurements? (width, height and thickness?) and they can | cut them to order?
Laver's
| In article , "mo" says... | > B and Q? Or will I have to look more local? | > | > All the floorboards in my room are different sizes - I guess I will have to | > give them exact measurements? (width, height and thickness?) and they can | > cut them to order? | | You are joking? There are specialists who will make floorboards to | match old ones, but not usually on a board-by-board basis. | > | > Is there a cheap material you can buy to put on top of floorboards to make | > the floor totally flat? | > | Plywood. But if the floor is that irregular it might be better to | replace the whole lot.
Hire an industrial sander, but punch the nails below the surface first.
I would suggest a local builders yard or wood yard. B&Q are expensive when it comes to wood and I have found wood is cheaper at the wood yard,thats locally by me though.
I found the opposite. B&Q were about 2/3rds the price of the local timber yard for floorboards. Also, the timber yard would only sell random lengths and stated flatly that no-one would sell me floorboards in regular lengths. The conservatory I needed them for has a metal framed construction that required no joins, and B&Q had fixed lengths only 15cm longer than I needed. The decision was a no-brainer, really.
Christian.
FWIW ... I bought some boards from B&Q -fixed length pack of 5?- the pack fitted into a hatchback and I needed them in a hurry.
I then purchased a load from a (fairly) local timber supplier STAMCO. They allowed me to purchase n lengths of n mtrs and y lengths of y mtrs ... they sold me what I needed to their nearest 'standard' length. [Know anybody that needs lots of
100-odd mm pieces of floorboards?] Delivery charges is waived if one purchases more than £35(?) of goods. Delivered straight to the door - I ordered it on Saturday morning and it was delivered on Tuesday morning {by the time I ordered it the Monday's run had been filled].{Incidentally; I purchased picture-rail mouldings from Travis Perkins, I had the dimensions of the walls and chimney breast cum alcoves - the guy sorted out lengths of mouldings that'd "just do it" allowing for mitring etc. By the time I'd finished the 'wastage' was about six inches long if joined end-to-end. Once again; they supplied what I wanted to the nearest standard length).
It's horses for courses.
Delivery is quite an advantage. I've never found a BM or timber merchant that won't supply particular lengths (to the nearest 300mm), although many won't if it leaves a too-short length over.
I have found TP rather expensive (a trade card helps a bit though).
Yup.
Are you going to put carpet on top? or vinyl? If so use hardboard...it's very cheap and it works perfectly.
Mr F.
I always use a timber merchant in preferance to a shed. IMO B&Q and other sheds are only there for when you run out of something between noon Saturday and Sunday evening.
A timber merchant will, but you will incur cutting charges. It is better to buy the next standard length up and cut them yourself. If you need non-standard widths and / or thicknesses, then you will need to order in advance and pay the machining costs.
If you are replacing the floorboards and want a flat floor, the simplest answer is flooring quality chipboard. For a really flat finish, screw the chipboard down, using countersunk screws in deeply countersunk holes, fill the holes and the slight gaps between the boards and sand smooth. However, that is really only necessary if you are putting something on top that will show imperfections, like the cork I put down in my bathroom. Carpet does not need the extra work.
Colin Bignell
| If you are replacing the floorboards and want a flat floor, the simplest | answer is flooring quality chipboard.
Not in bathrooms or kitchens.
Why not? I've chipboard in my kitchen, admittedly under some "tiles".
| Dave Fawthrop wrote: | > "nightjar" wrote: | > | If you are replacing the floorboards and want a flat floor, the simplest | > | answer is flooring quality chipboard. | > | > Not in bathrooms or kitchens. | | Why not? I've chipboard in my kitchen, admittedly | under some "tiles".
They do not appreciate water. A little bit and then dry off no problem, a small leak which you did not notice big problem.
Interesting, I've had a sheet of flooring chipboard covering up something outside for the last year or so. It looks exactly the same as it did then. Caberfloor P5 IIRC.
The green stuff isn't so bad.
What exactly is the problem?
The hardboard needs to be wetted quite thoroughly before fixing to the boards with tacks.The idea of wetting it is that when it shrinks it will go into tension against the tacks and wil not buckle if it stretches in the future.
Don't waste too much time having extremely well cut joints and borders, you will have to cover the hardboard as it is not wear resisitant.
I used the green water resistant stuff in a workshop where the floor got wet enough to rot the timber floorboards, about 20 years ago. It was still in good condition when I sold the property last year.
Colin Bignell
| Dave Fawthrop wrote: | > On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 15:23:12 +0100, Chris Bacon | > wrote: | > | > | Dave Fawthrop wrote: | > | > "nightjar" wrote: | > | > | If you are replacing the floorboards and want a flat floor, the simplest | > | > | answer is flooring quality chipboard. | > | > | > | > Not in bathrooms or kitchens. | > | | > | Why not? I've chipboard in my kitchen, admittedly | > | under some "tiles". | > | > They do not appreciate water. A little bit and then dry off no problem, a | > small leak which you did not notice big problem. | | Interesting, I've had a sheet of flooring chipboard | covering up something outside for the last year or | so. It looks exactly the same as it did then. | Caberfloor P5 IIRC.
I had a bit supporting the hot water cylinder, it was fine for 25 years but a leak developed around coil from the boiler, which was covered by the lagging, so I missed it. I suddenly found the cylinder was an inch lower than it should have been. Quickly shored it up, but it sort of brought forward a planned move to a combi boiler ;-)
Chipboard? Despite its wide use by crappy mass market builders, in an extensive survey it was ranked just above cardboard, candy floss and razor blades as the cheapest, nastiest and most unsuitable material ever created for floors.
The only good use for chipboard is bonfire material and its not much use for that either.
It can be very good, if you get moisture-resistant stuff, like the stuff under my kitchen floor "tiles".
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.