Hi,
I have a number of ornate steel painted gates on my property that depsite being wire brushed etc and reapainted, still go rusty again after 12months or so.
Its time to do something to them again. I initially thought about having them shot blasted back to bare metal and then immediately repainted again. However, it crossed my mind about having them blasted and then powder coated?
Would this be durable, or is there a better process that I could try??
Input welcome
Cheers Tim..
In my limited experience powder coating is far superior to any paint.
Mary
Its fine on simple metalwork, but if there are acute angles on the decorations, the paint will often not settle down in the cracks.
Steve
You could paint them with POR-15. I've never used it, but everyone I know who has has raved about the stuff, such that I've bought some to paint bits of my car with, and will probably use it for the oil tank in the garden.
Well...if you imagine a 15 foot x 4 foot gate with about 25 vertical twisted bars and some ornate twirly bits on the top that would be it, so its not massively complex...
Tim..
Thanks, who is this made by? Typical source of it?
Tim..
Hmm. We don't (you'll not be surprised to know) have what the OP called 'ornate' metalwork. I bow to your greater experience :-) I did say tht my experience was 'limited'!
Mary
Wire brush them again, then again after applying Jenolite. Prime with red lead - you can still get it from a decent paint supplier.
Tim (Remove NOSPAM. used his keyboard to write :
Powder coating is reputed to be far supperior to paint.
Powder coating IS painting. It has its plus points, but for the best finish, or a high gloss, you still need a wet spray finish.
You can't powder coat non-metallics.
And you can't powder coat the insides of small items.
Steve
...doesn't work well on castings either.
In message , Harry Bloomfield writes
I tried it on a radiator
12 months on and it's crazed badly
Possibly the constant heating and cooling? Didnt think powder coating was any good for things that get really hot- i.e. a radiator???
Tim..
" Tim \(Remove NOSPAM." wrote
I first heard about this stuff on the [old] Land Rover lists. They raved about it on there too, for painting chassis and the like.
I can dig back into it, some of the old Land Rover folk will know of a source.
Post on here (or privately) if you cant find any.
Cheers,
Paul.
Zymurgy writes
Would this be better than Hammerite [which only lasted about 3 years] for a mild-steel fire escape? And would it go on OK over old Hammerite? If so, more info would be appreciated.
My first question Tim is what kind of paint youre using and how many coats. Some paint types are just pants, including some that are sold specifically for this job, and some are good but very prone to pinholing, so that 1 coat only is ineffective.
Car spray paints do a good job, but you really have got to get the metal spotless, and with wrought metal its usually hopeless trying to get the crevices cleaned up with a wire brush.
When you say wire brush, do you mean by hand or a wire brush in a power tool like a drill or angle grinder? Huge difference.
I guess the ultimate coating would be to sand blast them and zinc dip them. Lead dipping would probably also work well but I expect would be frowned on now. But I've not tried dipping and have no idea of prices, so dipping might well not be a good solution.
Powder coating is durable, and is the standard finish on electronic equipment metal cases used by the military and commercial users who pay the price for thoroughly specced equipment. But with crevices youre in trouble, I dont see it dealing with those. Also powder coating does not stop rust that well: where it scratches it rusts.
Car underseal is good for rust stopping, but it is a relatively soft coating. There are self healing ones that recover holes after damage.
It might be worth asking a blacksmith what they finish their commissioned work with.
However, I would not be surprised if there is simply a problem in the method of preparation, the type of paints used, or the way theyre applied, so do tell.
Regards, NT
I got mine from snipped-for-privacy@rust.co.uk
What paint have you used in the past? I did the hinges on the side gate with two coats of black smooth Hammerite a couple of years back they are still as good as when I did them. The same can't be said for the galvanised screws... Hinges are iron, pitted on the rear from rust, all I did was wire brush them and apply the hammerite.
Main gate hinges where made by the local blacksmith and had a single coat of hammerite but not carefully applied so rust is appearing at the pinholes in the paint film but otherwise they to are in perfect condition.
When we built the kitcar some 15 years ago we used a few coats black Hammerite (not Smoothrite) on the chassis and other brackets etc and that has lasted pretty well but wasn't cheap.
I recently had the need to paint similar metal objects to be out in all weathers and bought a 5l tin of 'Chassis paint' from my local car spares place.
It goes on easily, dries fairly fast, can be overcoated, leaves a nice smoothish finish and is pretty cheap. (I think it may have a polyurethane base?)
All the best ..
T i m
Cheap and durabilty tend to be at opposite ends of the scale... When I can figure out the best way of removing the old paint, rust and algae from the railings here they will be black Hammerited on the basis of how well it has preformed on the hinges. It's not a job I want to be doing every couple of years, 5 might be acceptable, 10 would be better.
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