I'm considering concrete beam and block to replace a suspended timber ground floor. Can anyone give an idea of the cost comparison for concrete and timber. I'm only looking at a room size of about 4m x 5m. Thanks, Chris.
If DIY probably cheaper. Contact travis perkins for a quote. You need to get the beams made specially to size.
However its usually cheaper to just chuck hardcore and cement down and then DPM and screed. Any reason for suspended? BCO insisted in my case due to large areas/wet clay/presence of tree roots etc.
If you are going to install a beam and block floor, use the system that uses insulation foam as the blocks. The beams are concrete inverted "T"s. The slightly curved foam blocks fit between. This gives the a well insulated floor.
The void below the floor is greater than 600mm which would make infilling a problem. This is an old solid walled terrace house so I'm also wondering how the not inconsiderable self-weight of the floor will be supported.
Probably by adding some pillars, or a wall inside the wall etc.
The beams need to be well supported.
600mm on a smallish floor area is not much to infill - a few tons of crushed limestone whacked down, and over filled with concrete..
Where does the insulation go?
Why?? That's the big question....
I don't know, but I should thing that a timber floor will be much cheaper and easier to install than a suspended concrete one! Even with insulation and nice boards....
J.B.
Between the top screed dressing (3-4") and the concrete. Over a DPM.
Th eidea is to provide a stable sub base of crushed material that won';t wash away or encourage tree roots in neasr teh surface, then a fairly structural layer of concrete, possibly reinforced, then a damp and heat isulatiuon lateyer, then a surcfae finsih of not partiucularly strong material (screed) to provide smoothness.
If you look at the building regs, you will find that such a floor has a far lower U value than its dimensions and the insulatin suggest: This is because the sub base and earth itself provide significant insulation in themselves, being very massive.
I think we calculated last year that a 3 meter thinck stone wall would also meet building regulatins for insulation values as well. Those old castles weren't cold and draughty after all.
No, it isn;tt. And its draughty as well because you have to let underfloor spaces breathe or risk rot.
There are two classic asnwers - fill the void or use block and beam. There is very little cost difference, and block and beam is recommended where there are either huge voids, or risk of soil movement underneath.
Essentially with block and beam you dig deep foundation is small areas top acvhieve stability: Then span them weith teh beams infilled with concrete blocks. A quick brush of wet snad and cement seals them, and then DPM, insulation and screed is applied over the top.
With a simple slab, you cahiev sbitlity by useing porous material - hard core or limestone - that can take a little soil mobement, and then appluy a concrete layer over teh top to lock it all in place. The loads ar dustributed evenly, and if well compacted, its pretty stable on most solis.
The same DPM insulation and screed goes on top later.
Apoart from sounding more hollow, there is very little difference in them, except te slab is a bit warmer, as it doesn't have icy air circulatig underneath in winter.
If you want a wooden surface, use laminate, or use battens on the screed and traditional T & G boards.
Not draughty with insulation as I mentioned above....
[ snip ]J.B.
================== Given that the OP already has a suspended floor it should be cheaper to refurbish that rather than complete replacement by either infill or concrete block and beam.
I recently replaced my suspended timber floors including the addition of
50mm insulation and the cost was about £150-00 per room - 4m x 4m approx.. The job was actually quite straightforward and caused very little disturbance or mess.Cic.
Yes, but you still have an underfloor draught that reduces the temperature of the floor.
Even with insulation. I know cos I have a block and beam floor and its definitely colder even with insulation than solid floor with equivalent insulation.
A lot depends on the lack of rot and damp proofing below. Sure you can sling in new joists, lay unsulation and cover with planks, BUT that is likley to be as expensive as a straight concrete jobbie, and, if underlying damp issues are not sorted, itself rot in due course.
replying to Chris, RONNIE BRIGGS wrote: i have an area 10.5 x 5 meters how much would it cost to block and beam this area
This might assist you with posting to a newsgroup, albeit through a website:
- If you are sending a reply to a message or a posting be sure you summarize the original at the top of the message, or include just enough text of the original to give a context.
Especially when you specifically say you're 'replying' to Chris.
Is Chris still alive? His post was 13 years ago.
Better to start a new post rather than resurrect a very old one.
Perhaps you can read the old thread and tell us what the estimates were, I doubt they have gone up very much?
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.