I need a proper waterproof floor in my bathroom - old cork tiles clapped out. It's on the 2nd floor and has floorboards, so not a very even surface. Floorboards are old and have gaps in between them.
I'd like some kind of tiles, but open to all ideas. What's the best way of doing this? I'm afraid rigid tiles would just crack because of the uneven boards.
All suggestions welcome.
The traditional solution for vinyl tiles/sheet is to cover the floor with 3mm hardboard, stapled or pinned down, to give a flat surface.
You can get some very nice, very thick vinyl sheet these days. Carpetright have a good selection.
Personally, I think tiling on a wooden floor, even using the right adhesive - is a very bad idea indeed. You would need to cover it in fairly thick ply/MDF screwed down firmly to have any chance of success.
The traditional solution for vinyl tiles/sheet is to cover the floor with 3mm hardboard, stapled or pinned down, to give a flat surface.
You can get some very nice, very thick vinyl sheet these days. Carpetright have a good selection.
Personally, I think tiling on a wooden floor, even using the right adhesive - is a very bad idea indeed. You would need to cover it in fairly thick ply/MDF screwed down firmly to have any chance of success.
Yes - I didn't think solid tiles were a very good idea.
How about vinyl tiles, though? Easier to lay.
I also thought about mosaic. What are my chances of making that work? Could look nice.
How waterproof does it need to be - does it need to cope with standing water, or just splashes?
If the latter, I recommend carpet tiles of the type designed for bathrooms. As TMH has said, put hardboard down first to create a flat surface and bridge any gaps in the boards. Then lay the tiles tight to the walls and doorstrip[1]. You can then slosh a fair amount of water about without it penetrating to the hardboard and floorboards.
[1] As always, start in the middle and work to the outside, with less than a full tile against the walls. Cut the outer tiles slightly oversize (maybe 1mm) so that they are a slight interference fit (but not enough to prevent them from lying flat).
How do you make the joints waterproof? Wet will get under them to what ever you have used to give a smooth surface so that would have to water resistant at the very least, if not waterproof to stop damp getting to the orginal boards.
I think you's still need a very firm flat surface to start from or the grout will crack and damp will get in as above. Bit cold on the tootsies as well unless you put some underfloor heating in, which adds even more to the thickness of the new flooring.
Our bathroom was redone earlier this year, IIRC the bathroom installer used 'Harbibacker' boards, can't remember if he used hardboard as well.
After Christmas I intend to do just that with our bathroom.
SteveW
you mean use HardieBacker boards? I'm just reading up on them.
I thought it was hardibacker not hardiebacker?
A big bit of rolled vinyl is nice. Vinyl tiles would also work, but either way you need a very smooth surface under them, no way are boards ok. A 1mm step change is enough to ruin them in a year or 2. So hardboard, or better osb3 or wbp ply first.
Carpet: no. Ceramic tiles/mosaic: I wouldnt. It is done, but the odds of it lasting well are decidedly iffy. Wood: make it well preserved, ie outdoor pressure treated wood. If you're happy to deal with slight instability/gaps then quite doable. Asphalt: nice, but pricey
NT
I take up the floorboard and replace with plywood, then a sheet of Hardibacker and then tile or laminate. But then I am dealing with houses more than 120 years old.
It's on the 2nd floor and has floorboards, so not a very even surface. Floorboards are old and have gaps in between them.
of doing this? I'm afraid rigid tiles would just crack because of the uneven boards.
I had terrible problems with this. In the end I used a specialist firm to put down a wetroom floor. This has been completely perfect.
Bill
Eusebius put finger to keyboard:
Plywood to level the floor, then Karndean or similar.
Trouble with all these coverings (and I'd like to use something but don't know what) is that they block access to all the pipes and cables under the floor. You say "Carpet: no", but carpet tiles suitable for some dampness would at least be liftable.
Not to mention the sag with the weight. Brian
They're also easy to replace when they start to stink. BTDTGTTS.
Ah, for various reason I sit down to piss so there's no drippage etc. Non-degradable material should be able to withstand other water in small amounts.
I always install suspended ceilings below bathrooms. Very convenient space to fit stop valves and protected electrical supplies.
Take the old boards up and replace them. It can't be that big a job and you don't need to gt under the bath etc. just the walkway.
If you are going to use board over the old remember to soak it first to make it shrink fit when you lay it. The same applied for replacing the T&G you should treat it with whatever waterproofing and leave it standing in the same humidity for a while.
If you are going to stain it stain the tongue before you lay it.
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