You haven't indicated what you were looking at in solid wood. However, it should be possible to obtain good quality material in the £30-40 range.
It's always better to add the skirting afterwards
aid:
From
Multi-layer parquet 15 mm
Number of layers: 3 Veneer base, core lamellae and high-grade wood surface layer.
Surface layer: approx. 3,6 mm Laid floating on a level, solid surface such as concrete, particleboard=20 or wood. Multi-layer parquet 15mm =09
K=C3=A4hrs Linnea 7 mm, veneer floor
Number of layers: 3 Veneer base, wood fibreboard and high-grade wood surface layer
Surface layer: approx. 0,6 mm Laid floating on a level, solid surface such as concrete, particleboard=20 or wood, where the height of existing thresholds, etc has to be=20 accommodated.
--=20 djc
Andy Hall wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@nt1.hall.gl:
This is what I used last year:
I don't have the price to hand at the moment, but IIRC it was around £25 + VAT for the quantity I bought. The list price was (again IIRC) £28 + VAT, so I only got 10% off :(
In the dining room (concrete screeded floor) it was nailed (secret nailing) to 25mm battens with insulation between the battens. In the living room it was nailed direct to the existing suspended floor. The skirting boards were fitted last.
Using a mix of widths in the 'medium burn' finish and treated with Osmo Polyx Oil the floor looks look really good.
Hope this helps
snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk wrote: ... snipped
We looked around floors2go yesterday - a few surprises. Modern laminate looks a lot better than the stuff we laid about 10 years ago - colours are good and they now have reasonable texture - costs £15-£25/m2. The sound will be the same of course, although there seems to be a wider choice of underlay available. The more attractive engineered flooring was around £50/m2, about the same as the solid wood flooring.
Any suppliers around with better prices?
Dave
Definitely. You're not looking hard enough.
There is absolutely no need to have crappy plastic laminate at £25 a metre when you can get the proper stuff at around £30-35
NoSpam wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:
Many. Did you see my earlier post in this thread:
The price is for solid oak approx 18mm thick - none of this skimpy veneered stuff. There's a wide range of suppliers for this kind of flooring, although I've not seen many that do a 'pre-aged' variant.
Aside: when we were looking around approx 18 months ago, some of the more expensive 'engineered' stuff was the wrong side of £140/m**2 !!!
Hope this helps
We went to a couple of shops to look at engineered flooring. One shop that to avoid the "clic-lock" type of engineered flooring and that it is much better to have tongue and groove engineered flooring and put glue in the joints. They also recommended gluing the flooring to the sub-floor (which is screed), rather than having a floating floor. However, I thought a dampproof membrane is required when installing this type of flloring onto screed?
Another shop recommended the clic-lock type (e.g. Kahrs) and advised to install it as a floating floor with underlay.
Any opinions one way or the other much appreciated,
thanks
Julian
Yes. Use proper wood. There's little or no point in this engineered stuff.
Having done a lot of reading around and talking to people I don't think I agree. Engineered flooring will be more stable and uses less hardwood so is environmentally better. The disadvantage is also that it uses less hardwood (4mm seems to be common) so it can only be sanded a few times, but I don't see this being an issue in practice. Why do you say there's no point to it? Unless otherwise convinced I'll be ordering some Kahrs engineered flooring later this week.
Dave
Oh, Puhleez......
You may well be surprised.......
Because it is not maintainable in the middle to long term. One sanding, two at the most and it's toast. Solid wood will last for centuries. The latter makes much more environmental sense.
You might as well have laminate if you're going to do that.....
>
My kahrs has been down 4 years and not needed touching. It just gets swept. Now it ain't parquet of real teak oak or mahogany, but it won't need sanding for at least 30 years by which time I won't be able to see it anyway.
I would say it would take at least ten sands anyway to get through it.
I wouldn't worry about sanding. Unless you are very young and really sure you will be living there for the rest of your life how likely is it that it will need such refurbishment? With a click-lock engineered floor a damaged board can be replaced if needs be, normal domestic wear will not wear it enough to require sanding. Yes, solid would would be nice with an unconstrained budget or institutional levels of traffic.
This is a fallacy. You can have the real thing for about the same price as the artificial stuff.
Not including the laying and floor prep.
I laid about 60 sq meters of Kahrs in a day. Took me about 6 weeks to lay 30 meters of e.g. slates..
Slate is hard work, I agree. I had about 60 metres laid professionally and it took about a week.
Hardwood floor may take about twice as long as with artificial panels, but not 12 times as long.
Remember it has to be nailed or glued in place,.Thats at least doeible the time as again click together. Plus materials. Then it has to be finish sanded, stained and sealed. There are more than a few days work there with drying times etc.
I am no grteat fan of engineered floors - mine wnet in because it was guaranteed to be OK with UFH. In retrospect solid wood would have been nicer, but at least we had it all down in two days.
Not with a proper floor nailer.
a kilo or two of nails for pneumatic nailer.... not a lot.
Or much more simply and more attractively sanded, oiled and waxed.
About an hour or two, on the first, third and seventh days.
I can see that, but the same can be achieved with hardwood provided that it is properly acclimatised and grooves machined on the underside.
There's really not that much in it.....
Whether laying solid wood or engineered boards (non-clic-lock type), does anyone have any hints about how to go about gluing the boards together? E.g. if the glue gets squeezed out of the joint when the two boards are brought together, what's the best way of removing the excess glue (any particular solvent?). Also, is it necessary to clamp the boards together while the glue dries?
thanks, Julian
For proper wood, don't use glue. It isn't necessary.
The pieces should be butted up using special floor clamps and nailers and secret nailed. This will allow for the required movement to take place
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