Hi
I'm putting in a new kitchen with a friend, and apart from adding a few new skts, I was hoping to put either DP switches above the work surface for the skts for appliances below...Or do I use switched spurs, and put some kind if solid metal fuse in the appliances plug tops?
If I DP switches are better, then what amp do they need to be?
Thanks
Consider using simply cooker style socket-=and-switches..and running a spur to a 13A socket.
I must say I cant really see the pint of isolating appliances meself. They are either on 24x7, or if being services. need to be pulled out anyway.
Well our washing machine uses some power even when it's switched "Off" on it's front panel. My cheapo power meter says 8W but that might be pessimistic. Quite a few appliances will go into this "standby" mode if they have electronic controls as opposed to good old fashioned switches, so there's an advantage in being able to isolate them when not in use.
Well, I'm sure someone will be along to correct me but, as far as I know, there's no regulation that requires, say, a switched fused spur unit above the worktop to control a socket below the worktop - but that's exactly what I've done.
I've got single 13A sockets under the worktop behind the washing machine, dishwasher, fridge and freezer, all controlled by their own switched fused spur units above the worktop - theory being that if one of them starts smoking or otherwise misbehaving, it's easier to reach the spur unit than pull out the offending machine to isolate it. And it doesn't look unsightly either because the tea, coffee and sugar canisters hide them :o)
John
20 amp.
I'd not bother, personally. Why fit an extra switch for an appliance when it already has one on it?
No point, providing you (or a little old lady) can pull out the washing machine to get to it.
Hi All
"Thanks for the posts" After your advice, we've decided to put a couple of twin sckt's on pattress boxes inside the units adjacent the fixed appliances, these will be incorporated into the ring.
Assuming it will pass reg's to have sckt's from a ring in cupbords, opposed to spurs from a ring?
Why would a little old lady want to get at it?
Its fine, although try to have them fixed to the wall at the back of the unit rather than the "temporary" woodwork of the units themselves. You obviously need to cut access holes in the sides of the units to allow the appliance flexes to pass though.
To kill the power when sparks and acrid smoke a spewing from the machine that it currently full of water?
Turn it off with the switch on the machine?
An out of reach switch so small children cannot start the washing machine/dishwasher on their own?
Robert
I guess the point is you want to isolate the machine, and a lot of equipment these days has a "soft" switch which really leaves the thing in standby, but with electrical circuits active (but may switch off major things with a relay etc) Simon.
Can you give an example of this where the appliance doesn't need a standby mode to keep a clock or memory alive? Obviously excluding anything with a remote control.
Well, there's our washing machine for starters, 3 year old Bosch WF02466, no clock, no requirement to remember things between washes but uses a little power even when the front panel switch is "Off". The cheapo plug-in power meter says 8W, almost certainly not accurate but might as well be switched off on the wall.
8W standby is really bad for a 3 year old appliance. 2W was common by then and 0.5W was appearing (generally only achievable with switched mode PSUs).
Why not just switch off at the wall socket?
Mary
In a kitchen, not all power sockets are readily accessible, especially when used with built in appliances.
Because in most cases the bloody washing machine plug is behind the bloody washing machine.
Well since this is a topic about installing the wiring for one it's an opportunity to make sure it's not.
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