Ignore the horrible vermiculite or whatever it is (it's coming out), and the plywood box and flue, which is to do with the blown air heating (it's coming out). It's those roof 'trusses/beams' which worry me. There are 5 sets of those 'supports' at about 8' intervals. How do I remove at least a couple of them without the roof collapsing?
transfer most of the roof load to the central supporting wall of the property.
Can't really see what is going on with the vertical beams - they may just be straps holding a tie beam that is there to stop the floor joists twisting and to support the ceilings a bit.
What sort of tiles are on the roof? (i.e. are they particularly heavy?)
What arr those purlins in cross section? (they look quite skinny)
What are you attempting to do - more storage space, partial loft conversion etc?
conversions. But I would advise having a suitably competent person do the design.
In my bungalow, they are replaced with verticals and those transfer their load to either the new reinforced floor joists or in some cases, the old
2x4" ceiling joists. This is an old conversion (mid 70's) and should not be taken as being indicative of good practise today. Having said that, nothing's bending or falling down. Furthermore, a lot of the old roof is missing due to the size of the two dormers so there's less load anyway. The dormer roofs transfer their weight via the end walls directly onto the new
8x2" floor joists within 18" of the house walls, so they are pretty solid.
A mate's whose loft was dealt with (single dormer, 3/4 house depth) a couple of months ago had a number of steels inserted.
You would be best off with a suitably qualified engineer or architect IMO.
Beefing up the purlins would let you lose some of the diagonal struts that are supporting the purlins. I can't quite see on the photo, but I trust the purlins are supported on the end gable wall as well (if not that is something else that could be done)
That was the reason for my question about if it was ultimately going to be a loft conversion. If you were going that route, then you would be able to design a floor that would be able to carry the roof load as well, by sticking dwarf walls where the purlins currently are. However without the strengthened floor it is much more difficult.
What I did with my loft that has a very similar joists was dump the chipboard and put some floor boards down, spaced out so that you don't end up falling between them. Floorboards are far lighter than chipboard and because you space them out, they are lighter still.
Regrettably no, but try picking up an 8 x 4 piece of chip board and then a bundle of floor boards that will span 4 foot, even if they are longer. Anyone else on here that can be more definitive?
Exactly the figures I see. Most people "remember" chipboard in terms of worksurfaces for kitchens, which are very thick and heavy. There isn't that much difference in the density in reality. Floorboards can work thinner than you would with chipboard though, so one might save a bit there.
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