Wet car carpets an the waterproof membrane in car doors

Seeing as many manufacturers themselves use a tape similar to duct tape, how can it be a bodge? Your condescending, self righteous and rude attitude doesn't go down well I assure you. There's nothing wrong with disagreeing, but do you have to be so unpleasant about it? You may believe you are an expert on all subjects relating to car maintenance, but your posts clearly show you're not. In fact you sound like J.E.L under a different name. Like you he knew it all. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G
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I did the Pug 206 today. Their seal is slightly different - the membrane is not polythene but a kind of high density foam sheet sitting on a white bead about 2mm diameter. It had become detached (or never attached) over 3-4 inches right at the lowest point with clear evidence of water tracks running down from there. I tried my silicone gun and it stuck to this membrane like the proverbial, so I used that to refix it. Time will tell! I wouldn't risk the silicone on the Cav's poly sheet though.

I'm still puzzled by "Polyurethane sealer". A google for it brings up a liquid used for sealing wood grain. In other words, what we used to call polyurethane varnish. I can't see how that can be sticky. Is the stuff you call PU something different?

-- Phil Replace NOSPAM with bigfoot to reply

Reply to
Phil

Didn't my ascii art show up? Like you I didn't realise the importance of it for water sealing, but as I say, all 3 cars have enough rain getting in to soak the carpet, and this is with them just parked outside when it rains heavy. If you look carefully at the inner skin pressing you should see a shallow 1/2" wide channel running across the bottom. The membrane is glued immediately below that so any water running down is caught and runs along the channel to its lowest point where a hole is punched through the skin. this routes the water to the door insides where it finds its way out through drain holes at the bottom. This is how it is in the Cav and Rover. The Pug 206 is a bit different and more robust (potentially, although mine failed!), see my previous post.

When the car is parked on the camber it is invariably the uphill side that leaks. Water must be dripping past the outer window seal, running down the glass inside the door and dripping off that onto the inner skin. From there it presumably finds its way through the numerous piercings you mention.

The plastic press-stud things that fix the outer trim are, I guess, supposed to be a tight fit and hopefully won't let a significant stream through. It's a point to watch for sure.

-- Phil Replace NOSPAM with bigfoot to reply

Reply to
Phil

Just re-read yours (Dave) and perhaps I missed the point. In the Pug, which is only 3 years old, the rear door only has one piercing in the membrane for the window winder handle, and that is sealed by a neat circle of caulk round it. Also the membrane is well sealed all the way round with a caulk bead. On the Cav and Rover there were lots of unsealed holes but they are all fairly high up. I covered them all up with either duct tape or a blob of silicone.

-- Phil Replace NOSPAM with bigfoot to reply

Reply to
Phil

No they don't. As I say, get a clue, stop trying to be a moron ! The only door I've seen come out of a factory with 'Duck' type tape as the means of sealing the door pad in the last 25 or more years was the original Mini.

Nor does you trying to wrap your bull -shit up as fact when you prove time and time again that you are nothing but a clueless idiot when it comes to even basic information.

POP KETTLE BLACK....

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

That's how my SD1 left the factory.

So you're probably right.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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Reply to
:::Jerry::::

How is the door trim attached? I'd have thought this would be the weak point?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The original Mini didn't have a door pad as such - sliding windows. The trim was simply wedged up against the inner of the door skin.

In theory, with no wind up windows, no water can get 'inside' the door.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The message from Phil contains these words:

Seam sealer - mastic-like substance.

Reply to
Guy King

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

I Know, and as soon as I sent the message I though that someone would comment on what I said, the original Mini apposed to the BMW Mini is what I meant.

Trouble is, I can't think of the new Mini as a Mini, horrid things, I would love to se some of the repair times for even basic items....

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

You sure you're not J.E.L masquerading under a different name? Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

Right, now I know what you are talking about. Without having actually used this stuff, I can't be sure, but it doesn't look right to me for adhering to polythene....

Variants say "can be smoothed to a featheredge with a wet finger and sets to a firm, tough, rubber-like water resistant bead." "Paintable in

30 minutes". "Adheres well to clean, bare metal, primed metal and paint surfaces. Skins over quickly. Low shrinkage. Can be painted within 20 minutes. Excellent tooling and sanding properties." "designed to seal interior and exterior joints and seams. Adheres well to clean, bare metal, primed metal and painted surfaces. " "easily thumbed into place and smoothed with a finger. It may be painted immediately."

"Adheres well to primed surfaces *except acrylic lacquer*." "Available in white and gray colors that when applied are *tack free* and paintable in 30 min." (*My emphasis*).

-- Phil Replace NOSPAM with bigfoot to reply

Reply to
Phil

Err, you having concentration problems Dave??

Like I said, 20:18:04 post, ...

"The plastic press-stud things that fix the outer trim are, I guess, supposed to be a tight fit and hopefully won't let a significant stream through. It's a point to watch for sure."

So it's fixed with plastic press-stud things - on all 3 cars. :-)

-- Phil Replace NOSPAM with bigfoot to reply

Reply to
Phil

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Well it (or one of the other makes) will do what require [1], but it's up to you if you wish to believe me or not, just to say that I've used the stuff to 'glue' far more demanding things than a door pad sealing membrane....

[1] types / makes do not set like a rubber but style semi soft, both will do what you require.
Reply to
:::Jerry::::

It's not a question of believing you, just of understanding the basis of your recommendation. Nowhere have you said you have actually used it on polythene type membranes, and polythene is one of the most difficult substances to glue. The vast majority of adhesives will not stick to it.

-- Phil Replace NOSPAM with bigfoot to reply

Reply to
Phil

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But this is NOT an adhesive, it's a seam sealer which is more like a liquid rubber before it 'sets' (like rubber). Even if it doesn't 'glue' the membrane it will form a seal. I really can't see any reason why it won't do as you need.

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

Hi,

This one looks like the most promising:

Reading the MSDS and data sheet it looks like it is a non setting polybutylene sealant, so doing a UK search on non setting butyl comes up with some references:

I'd expect a glaziers or even a decoraters merchant would also carry a sealant like this, or know where it can be obtained.

While looking at the 3M site I noticed a couple of adhesives that look interesting, would save welding body panels sometimes ;)

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

More comprehension problems.

Given that they'll be at near the lowest point in the door frame, I'd say their sealing would be of prime importance.

The thing is that the bottom part of the door frame will be easily sealed, being all steel, and will have large drain holes. Now the only problems that could arise are if the water level can rise above this part, which really shouldn't happen. So trying to seal the entire door so it could be filled with water seems to me unlikely as well as unnecessary.

IMHO, the reason to seal the flexible liner is more one of draughts and possibly noise rather than to prevent water leaks.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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