I've just seen one of these Fluidmasters in action, and was impressed.
How tricky is it for a handyman non-professional to replace a conventional floating-ball filler valve with one of these?
Is it as simple as unscrew old, screw on new?!
Depends if the old one side entry or bottom entry?
Assuming bottom entry; that's what that model is for.
See e.g.:
Typical Harry response
I've had one in for a year along with their flush mechanism and it is excellent. The syphon system failed on mine and I needed a new one - went for the Fluidmaster flush system which is so stupidly simple that I don't know why we persist in this country with the syphon type mechanism. The operation is incredibly light and allows a long or short flush depending on how long you hold the handle down.
I also fitted the valve mechanism. The only problem I faced was that the cistern is a narrow one and I had to juggle things a little to get the float to come up properly and not foul the lever mechanism.
Go for it.
Rob
Sorry, there was a clue in the title I overlooked :-)
OK, water off, flush & drain cistern.
Undo the tap connector which joins the supply pipe to the plastic thread on the valve.
If possible/easy, cut away a section of pipe & use a flexible tap connector;
Undo the plastic nut holding the fill valve & remove. Clean out any s**te in the bottom of the tank.
Insert new valve, rubber washer inside, cone down & fit plastic nut, but don't do up tight just yet. Make sure no moving parts catch on the cistern sides.
Screw the tap connector onto the plastic thread - make absolutely sure it doesn't cross thread - thats why you haven't done the plastic nut up fully, it gives a bit of play to make sure things are straight.
Now do up the plastic nut & tap connector hand tight, then nip them up with half a turn with a spanner.
Turn on water, check for leaks, adjust water level.
Robert is your fathers brother.
Any reason why you're inflicting a Japanese character set on everyone?
I would add here... Unclip the valve (with the diaphram) from the top, hold a mug over the outlet to direct the fountain back into the cistern, and turn on the water for 5-10 seconds. This will flush out any debris in the pipe, which will otherwise be washed into the valve the first time you use it, preventing it shutting off, because the higher flow rate is likely to dislodge debris which has been settled in the pipe for years.
Many years ago I had all the float valve fillers in the house replaced by the cheap Torbeck gadgets. They worked faithfully for many years.
You mean UTF-8, used by a large part of the Linux community?
Ironically, I had recently changed to UTF-8 after someone else (in the gmane Thunderbird newsgroup) said his newsreader had a problem with the ISO-08859-1 I was using, and subsequently agreed that the change to UTF-8 was better for him!
When you say 'cut away a section of pipe', I assume you mean the supply pipe that enters the tank, so that the connection of the Fluidmaster can be close to the bottom of the tank. But the new gadget needs to be solidly connected to the input pipe, not on a flexible mount, surely?
(I had assumed the web site was going to show an adaptor for fitting on the end of the shortened input pipe to provide a threaded connection to the gadget.)
This post has: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-2022-jp
You may want to check your settings.
Mike
Do you mean the *old* valve, before it's removed?
I meant the new one.
You could do it with the old one instead if you can remove its guts so it lets a full flow through. The object is to flush any debris out of the supply pipework, so it doesn't get stuck in the Fluidmaster's diaphram.
You're not using UTF-8. You're using a character set which few Western Europe systems are likely to have bothered to install, 'iso-2022-jp'.
No. At present I assume the fill valve is connected via rigid copper pipe? The connection is outside the tank.
You can just reconnect the new fill valve to that, once it id in place.
However, its much easier to use a flexible connector, in which case you would need to cut a piece of the copper pipe away.
Totally flabbergasting! Will investigate...
(Anyone else having problems with the code page used in my postings?)
Does this look better, Andrew?!
PMFJI.... yes.
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