Want to really waterproof my new leather boots. I have heard that dubbin will rot leather and can soften it too much, and even ordinary shoe polish with its 'spirit' content will dry out leather and do it no favours.
I do have a tube of silicon grease would. Would that be a good idea or might it also damage the leather? Grateful for suggestions.
Nikwax?
I've used both Nikwax and silicone spray (not on the same boots). Both work OK.
Really ?
It was claimed at one point that amino acids in dubbin can affect stitching. There has never been a recorded case of dubbin ever rotting leather.
Dubbin is fairly chaep to produce and has been used in various formulations without problems on saddlery etc for hundreds of years.
Which is clearly an unsatisfactory state of affairs, if you'd rather sell branded gunk to a gullible public at a 500% mark up.
In a Wilkison's near you. They used to sell Dales dubbin at
65p per tin, but maybe Dales got taken over as its now Cherry Blossom Dubbin at £1 a tin.michael adams
In message , Dave West writes
I use Renapur Leather Balsam on both our leather furniture and footware. They say apply with a sponge but I prefer to use a finger. Smells good too.
We've used dubbin on leather boots for decades and have had no problems you mention. Our boots are that smooth-finish hide, not the finish like suede (can't understand why anybody chooses that finish for walking or walking boots). IMO dubbin keeps leather flexible and waterproof which is what I want. I usually leave an application of dubbin on the boots overnight or even longer to let the leather absorb it, before brushing off any excess.
Janet.
Would really help to know what they are for. Fashion? Motorcycling? Walking? Horse riding? Do you want waterproof like wellies, or do you just mean water repellant for urban showers? Will they get soaked day after day, or is it just occasional use? Different answers for different cases.
That's what I use. Clean boots well, have boots nice and warm and apply with old tooth brush working well into an seams/stiching.
Last pair of boots failed because I didn't treat them often enough, the leather dried out and split at the toe bend. We are talking not treated for years though...
"Brasher" Conditioning Cream for leather walking shoes.
"Storm Waterproofing Ltd" Leather Conditioning Balm for instrument cases e.g. Avometer case.
Dubbin works fine - shoe polish is just that, and doesn't help much with waterproofing. I don't find Nikwax any better than dubbin, and wouldn't use silcone grease.
But it depends on what you mean by "really waterproof" - at most, you can waterproof them for two days' of use, they will start to leak on the third day and get worse thereafter. If you can dry boots out overnight and treat them in the morning, fine, but that's impossible on multi-day trips. I know of no solution for such use, based on leather boots or otherwise - and nor do the army!
Regards, Nick Maclaren.
Most of the formulations are just variations on vaseline, or some closely related mineral oil/wax. They are all hydrophobic but the softer ones become tacky in warm weather so that everything sticks to them. Paraffin/candle wax should perform well but needs to be melted, so not the easiest to apply
========================================================================= I saw a documentary on the falklands conflict the other day and it said the army had trouble with trench foot (from having wet feet) over that long walk they had to do there.
It did make me wonder why they dont go for those all rubber lace up boots, which are fine for the colder locations. (i did have a pair once, came from malaysia).
As others have asked: what boots? And what do you want to use them for?
As t'other Nick has just said, nothing maintains constant waterproofness without constant maintenance. I have a six-year-old pair of leather military boots from Argentina which were built in the traditional way and which are still waterproof. They get used mainly on the pavement but are always my first choice for snow and ice like our current conditions. Often they will be walked across footpaths and fells and sometimes get very muddy - but I always wipe them clean afterwards. I keep them shiny, supple and waterproof with good old spit and polish: ordinary boot polish and spit mixed into an emulsion by the action of brush on leather.
Nick
I once had a pair of Nu-buck" boots my Hi-Tec, they were the suede like finish you seem to dislike. After many wearings and the finish became less than pristine, the firry finish had long since gone, I polished them with ordinary boot polish eventually they shone like Parade Square standard.
They were probably the most comfortable boots I've ever bought.
Bill
The British army had a little trouble, but not much, because the conditions were the same as the ones they had trained in (in the Highlands). The Argentine conscripts were in really bad shape. Trench foot is caused by extended periods of cold, wet feet (not just wet); extended periods of hot, wet feet causes other problems, and is a major problem in tropical jungles.
Not really, because they don't breathe, so sweat accumulates. I tried a pair once, and they fitted so badly that I gave them away; that is soluble by redesign, but the unbreathability isn't.
But, like you, I am surprised that they aren't more used.
Regards, Nick Maclaren.
Neats foot oil
This is what you want
As someone else pointed out NIKWAX
When I had new Army boots ... Liquid NIKWAX first, helped them break-in, they plain Nikwax .......... helps if boots are warm (put them in airing cupboard or similar) then rub NIKWAK in with the fingers. Heat and pressure will work it in ....
I would not use Silicon grease. Dubbin works fine but never really 'sets' so boots stay greasy, and then picks up sand & dust which sticks to it. NIKWAX
The problems the Brits had were due to the moulded sole construction of their boots and the fact they were a little on the short side. Some of the Argies had rather good boots which were much sought after by our chaps.
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