OK. Its a 150litre unvented pressurised tank. Had a look and I can see what they mean. All the pipes are emerging from the back of the tank. Theres zero room around there because like somesaid, it looks like the three walls have been built around it.
I guess the work would involve re-oding all the pipework too if the tank were resited.
IS it harder or take longer to remove and refit a pressuruised tank rather than a normal one?
You still haven't said whether it is electric only heating or if there are piped connections to a boiler too (indirect heating).
If it is electric only heating then the pipework is trivial, cold feed at the bottom, hot flow at the top and (as it is unvented) a drain for the safety relief valve.
If it is indirect too then there will be another 2 pipes which does add to the complexity.
The fact that is unvented makes things more complicated as you are _meant_ to use an approved installer/maintainer for that kind of installation.
The bottom line is, if you believe that the quote is too high then get another quote. As I said earlier, the quote of a full day seems excessive, even with the added complexity and safety implications of an unvented system but we can't say for sure as we can't see how your system is arranged (photo please).
Yes. Not only are they heavier etc, but there are extra connections to take care of such as over pressure/temperature relief pipes and a tundish. A professional fitter will also need additional certification (G3) that is not required for a normal vented cylinder. Hence that will also potentially make it more expensive.
(btw, a pressurised tank would preclude my other suggestion of adding a new hole for a second immersion)
I'll get photo sorted. Its gas heated with boiler downstairs.
That'd be good.
The fact that's it's an indirect cylinder comes as a surprise, I think a lot of responders have assumed that it is an electrically heated cylinder with a faulty immersion (electric heater) thermostat.
I don't think it's really clear yet whether it's the thermostat controlling the boiler that is faulty or the immerser thermostat that has gone. Is the fault happening with only boiler heating, ie with any electric backup totally turned off?
If it is the thermostat for the boiler heating then bypassing the faulty stat with a strap on one becomes a far more acceptable alternative. That is unless the pressurised cylinder has a metal jacket over its insulation or the manufacturer says not to cut the insulation to fit a strap on stat. Either way, the cylinder manufacturer's instructions should be consulted or they should be approached directly.
The indirect coil connections do add to the complexity of the changes but it still seems steep at a full day's labour. That pic should make things a lot clearer.
Not a clue - but I think John knows what he's talking about here. (I work in computers, and "no single point of failure" is a pretty common term in systems design)
Andy
So fit a relay so the (tank) stat CAN control the 3kW IH.
The immersion heater also needs a manual resettable over temperature lock out, CH tank stats won't do..
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