Water Heater Problems

[tobin]

Hi there,

Sorry about the long post, there is a question in here at the end!

I have a separate water heater for providing instant hot water to my 3 bed semi. This "Main" boiler has now failed (it's rather old!), and has a crack in it rendering the whole unit illegal.

I've had quotes from various companies to fit a replacement, all have been in the same price range (=A3500-=A3600)

However, one company say that a replacement boiler cannot be fit without breaching the standards. It's down to the fact that the heater flu is too close to external down pipes, and that the boiler only has about 20cm of room before it would be too close to the electricity fuse box. So, they say they can't find a heater that will fit and satisfy standards.

They say the only thing I can do to meet standards is to lose the water heater and combine it with my main central heating system (combi boiler for both). The cost of this is about =A31600 , much more than just replacing the heater, since it involves re-routing various gas pipes and buying a more expensive boiler.

My quesiton is this: should I just go ahead and fit a replacement water heater through one of the companies that have not mentioned the standards issue, but ensure I get written guarantee from them that they will do the job properly and to standards? Or, should I somehow try to raise an *extra* =A31K and trust the other company?

Any advice more than welcome,

Tobin Leeds, UK

[Doctor Drivel]

Hi there,

Sorry about the long post, there is a question in here at the end!

I have a separate water heater for providing instant hot water to my 3 bed semi. This "Main" boiler has now failed (it's rather old!), and has a crack in it rendering the whole unit illegal.

I've had quotes from various companies to fit a replacement, all have been in the same price range (£500-£600)

However, one company say that a replacement boiler cannot be fit without breaching the standards. It's down to the fact that the heater flu is too close to external down pipes, and that the boiler only has about 20cm of room before it would be too close to the electricity fuse box. So, they say they can't find a heater that will fit and satisfy standards.

They say the only thing I can do to meet standards is to lose the water heater and combine it with my main central heating system (combi boiler for both). The cost of this is about £1600 , much more than just replacing the heater, since it involves re-routing various gas pipes and buying a more expensive boiler.

My quesiton is this: should I just go ahead and fit a replacement water heater through one of the companies that have not mentioned the standards issue, but ensure I get written guarantee from them that they will do the job properly and to standards? Or, should I somehow try to raise an *extra* £1K and trust the other company?

Any advice more than welcome,

[Ian Stirling]

Can you define "crack", and "it", as well as the make and model? Maybe it can be repaired.

[tarquinlinbin]

If we are talking about a Main multipoint water heater then you could perhaps quote the make/model etc as parts may still be available for it.

Remove antispam and add 670 after bra to email

[Ed Sirett]

Seeing as electricity is to hand it should be possible to replace the "Main" water heat with a fanned flue unit. These will have a much less restrictive flue siting requirement. I believe Potterton do a unit for under £300 - which is less than a replacement "Main". The advantage of the Main is that it will use the the same flue hole and does not require any electricity.

If you have 20cm clearance more than the 15cm required then what's the problem? it's enough.

[Andrew Gabriel]

ISTR the Main flue is allowed extremely close to external downpipes to the sides of it. This was a concern to me when I replaced mine, but when I got the installation instructions, the distance allowed was as little as a few inches (can't recall exact figure), and certainly some 25 years of use had not harmed a plastic pipe this close. The clearance required is much higher for pipework above the flue terminal. There's a house I walk past sometimes, where the nice new plastic gutters got a big sag in them where they pass over a similar looking flue terminal, which is quite some way below. They've fitted a heat shield under the gutter now.

[Doctor Drivel]

One Main model has electrtics and a fanned flue.

If the unit cannot be repaired, or economically not worth it, then replacing with new condensing combi will be by far the best approach, and give far high flowrates and low gas bills. And probably cheaper.

About the only advantage

Depends on the model.

[Tobes]

Thanks for all the replies folks, opinions much appreciated.

The heater is a Main Medway, that's as much as I know. The crack is a hairline crack on the front of the unit (under the cover). Two plumbers spotted it and said that it rendered the unit unusable.

As a couple of posters suggested, I quite like the idea of finding another heater with a smaller flu - since this is still a low(ish) cost solution.

However, based on advice here (and a few mates opinions) I've now decided to go for the combi boiler, as I think overall the benefits are worth it despite the initial higher outlay (will have to postpone buying a new guitar for a while!).

Again, thanks for all the help.

Tobin

[meow2222]

omg someone took drivels advice!

I'd be looking at repair first, myself. And rarely would I take his advice - though he has got it right occasionally.

NT

[Doctor Drivel]

Please don't ever take my advise. Please get everything wrong and pay a fortune.

[meow2222]

Yes Sir

NT

[Doctor Drivel]

Good. That's a good boy.