Presently we have a water hammer issue in our property, always been o
the idea that it is down to loose piping banging together etc. Noise occurs when turning taps off,when toilet stops filling, whe washing has filled with water etc Have had a combi boiler fitted recently and things seem to have go worse since this was fitted. Clipped down the piping upstairs, doing i room by room during renovating and the noise upstairs has reduce noticeably. The boiler does have a expansion vessel fitted to it. Reading on the web that there is such a thing as a "shock arrestor" Would this cure the issue / help or should we wait and keep clippin piping as and when. Would replacing the stop tap on the rising main as everything now is a mains pressure Help a well ??
A suggestion often made is to turn down the stop-tap, to limit the flow. It didn't work in my case, but paradoxically, opening it right up did. I have no explanation.....
We owned a property a number of years ago with a similar problem t yours. Ours was cured by reducing the flow cold-water supply coming i at the 'mains'. It appears that the pressure was too great for th system.
The expansion vessel is part of the heating side of the system. This part is filled through a filling loop (short braided hose and two valves) and then turned off. It is there to maintain the CH circuit under pressure, while allowing for expansion of the heated water in the CH circuit.
The cold and DHW part is completely separate to the CH.
Yes, you can get them quite cheaply from plumbers merchants or on line from
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part no. 11355.
I had a similar issue at one point and fitting one did help.
It might be worth checking the toilet float valve. Is that the only automatic valve in the house? Presumably you no longer have a tank in the loft?
Try taking the lid off of the cistern and observing the behaviour of the valve as it is closing and the noise starts. Typically with water hammer, if the valve is involved you will see pulses of water while it's happening. If it's a conventional long-arm float valve, try pushing the float down or pulling it up while this is happening and see if it stops. Also, check whether you get the float valve partly operating when you operate the taps, especially closing them quickly and especially those nearer the location of the toilet.
If you do have a conventional float valve like BES part no. 11201 or
11202, then try changing it for a Torbek equilibrium valve. (16253/16254). These are worth having anyway because they will make the cistern fill quieter. However, they come with a set of flow restrictors. You must fit the high pressure (HP) one or there will be a very high chance of water hammer.
If the water supply has pressure reducing valve or non-return valve on it and quick action lever taps are used, the shock can part push-fit fittings, these are mainly used on plastic, but also on copper, and then you have a full "open end" gushing water everywhere very quickly at mains pressure. This is a lot more common that what people think. I have known this to happen on a number of occasions. Even with no pressure reducing valve or non-return valve on the cold water mains, it is advisable to fit one when using plastic piping. As near to any shock as possible, or as near to any potential shock, such as a one lever kitchen mixer.
All water tanks have been removed from the property. there are tw toilerts in the property, one is a B+Q Cloakroom set-up cistern and th main bathroom has a Jacob Delafon an cistern (not an arm set-up). Sorry i don't know the correct term for this cistern.
Looks like a shock arrestor would be a good idea then, where is th best place to fit it ?
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