The Natural Philosopher wrote
May I suggest you stop washing socks that are so far gone, they can disappear in a single wash. Perhaps losing your socks is your partners way to letting you know you have an issue with buying new clothes.
The Natural Philosopher wrote
May I suggest you stop washing socks that are so far gone, they can disappear in a single wash. Perhaps losing your socks is your partners way to letting you know you have an issue with buying new clothes.
Bob Eager wrote
A regular very hot wash with soda crystals removes a lot of that s**te. Low temperature washes have a tendency to leave stinking slime inside a washing machine.
On the old hotpint, it was brand new socks mate.
I discovered it was easy especially in a well stuffed machine toi get a sick past the gap between drum and door seal.
When I dismantled the thing to fix it, I found several brand new socks in there.
Perhaps losing your socks is your partners
harryagain wrote
Really? Hows about all the skin that's attached to clothes and lard on tea towels?
Caustic will also get rid of hair, which can be a problem in a housefull of wimmin.
I reckon you are spot on. A 40mm pipe has an area of 1260 mm sqd, a 3mm buildup reduces that to 908mm sqd. Over 25% reduction.
Not so much as simply to prevent siphoning of any sort (there's no control valve to stop the washing machine from emptying itself out in the absence of an air break).
The (dish or clothes) washing machine drain stand pipe needs to be that tall to place the "Air Break" safely above the maximum fill level of each machine in question, 60cm works for both cases.
Draining is just a matter of running a simple impellor pump to pump out the dirty water. A simple electrical switch contact is all it takes with no further complication of a shut off valve.
If the pump fails for whatever reason, draining down is simply a matter of unhooking the hose end from the stand pipe and laying it down to allow gravity to let the water flow out, usually into a suitable receptical such as a washing up bowl or bucket.
Does that happen often in reality?
I know it *can* happen, so whenever I use duct tape to hold the outlet hose in place, I always make sure to leave a gap. ;-)
I think they can't put in such a control valve, because then you wouldn't be able to empty the machine out --- by lowering the outlet hose or using the auxiliary hose (or whatever it's called) in the front --- when something goes wrong.
Good point. When I rebuilt the waste pipes last summer, I ran them separately (with separate traps) most of the way to the outside wall, so there's only a short shared section. The pipe goes through the wall to an elbow pointing down with an air gap above the drain too.
Never heard of it, but water authorities are paranoid about the possibility.
Hence the air gap. Siphonage in this situation is about as likely as a lightning strike, but, as I said water authorities are paranoid about the possibility.
You snipped this bit of my post: =========================================== Draining is just a matter of running a simple impellor pump to pump out the dirty water. A simple electrical switch contact is all it takes with no further complication of a shut off valve.
If the pump fails for whatever reason, draining down is simply a matter of unhooking the hose end from the stand pipe and laying it down to allow gravity to let the water flow out, usually into a suitable receptical such as a washing up bowl or bucket. ===========================================
Which explained why a control valve is not used, nor desirable.
I agree. I was talking about the air gap.
Are your wimmin that hairy? Hair gets hung up on the basin outlet grid but not elsewhere. Washing machine drains get bunged up with lime and detergent.
Is the fall sufficient? Level and near level pipes can cause this problem. Esp in a long run.
A Miele that I installed about 14 years ago had an outlet valve. It could be run down to a gully directly or pump over . Can't remember how it's drained if the pump or valve goes titsup.
harryagain wrote
Lime? All I can see is a lemon.
sorry
Oh, I didn't realize the air gap was a water authority requirement --- I thought it was just good practice to keep dirty water from coming back into the machine. That seems unlikely enough, but to contaminate the mains water, you'd need a couple of things going wrong at the same time.
In article , Adam Funk writes
I don't believe it is. Any water authority rules on back siphonage will be met by having the water inlet valves at high level and also having their outlet at the high level of the soap drawer so that they can never become submerged.
It does do that but I also believe it acts as a buffer to the high speed emptying of machine so that it does not overwhelm the drain and cause backflow up through the sink etc.
I don't know that it is a requirement, I just assume it is based on previous experience with water authority idiots :-)
I'll take your word for that, having discussed combi-boiler filling loops with plumbers ("you're supposed to disconnect them when not in use, but then the customers lose parts, or something damages the threads, ...."). It's a good idea to leave a gap anyway, though.
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