Washing machine fittings leaking

[JM]

Hi,

I've just bought a house and tried to connect a washing machine today. The plumbing includes valves a little like these

but straight, not angled.

Unfortunately, there is some leaking, even if the taps are turned off and the washing machine's hoses are connected (with the supplied filter washers).

My theory is that:

a. the valves are inherently faulty (given that the taps aren't 100% effective on them) b. the valves haven't been correctly fitted to the copper piping (I can't see any PTFE tape on them, but I don't know whether this is correct).

Does this sound right?

Thanks, John.

[Ian Stirling]

Is there leaking if the hoses are not actually connected, and the taps are turned off? If so, this is definately a fault. In general, the rule for this sort of thing is to if, when it leaks a bit on assembly, after you've tightened it up, open it up and examine the seating surfaces of the washer/... for debris or flashing from the mould. Smooth it flat, if it's not quite flat. Then reassemble, and give it another tighten. Grab the body of the valve in a pair of mole-grips or something, and you can then really tighten the plastic bit. Putting the plastic connector in boiling water for a couple of minutes first can make it easier.

[JM]

Yes - the leaking occurs whether the hoses are connected or not, and whether the taps are on or off.

The leakage appears to be both from the joint between the pipe and the valve, and from the end of the valve (i.e.after the tap).

I might get someone in to do it as I need a gas cooker installing (plus, I've not got any experience of plumbing!). It's not 'must be done today' urgent as we've not moved in yet and the water has in the meantime been turned off at the supply.

Cheers for the fast response!

John.

[Andrew McKay]

Whoa! Do not REALLY tighten the hose connectors! Nip them up, yes, but don't do an Arnold Swarzeneggar on them or you will be sorry.

If you attempt to apply too much pressure on the plastic bit what happens (frequently) is that the plastic bit breaks physically, and the drip turns into a flood.

In cases where the washing machine hose(s) do not make a good seal on the tap and everything else is in order, the solution is usually to replace the washing machine hoses. This has worked for me on a couple of occasions - so I carry spare hoses in my plumbing kit now.

Have you tried replacing the rubber washer that sits between the hose and the tap? These cost a few pence and aren't really re-usable if you've had them in place for a while.

Andrew

[Andy Dingley]

If it's leaking before the valve, then that's a bad compression fitting. It can be caused by the pipe being poorly cut (and distorted), re-using an old olive, jointing onto painted pipe, or just being cack-handed at fitting them.

The fix is to take the valve off and re-fit it, doing it carefully this time. You'll need a new olive.

The valve shouldn't leak internally, but especially for high pressure cold water, it wouldnt be the first one to do so.

You don't need any PTFE tape. It won't help.

Every time I disconnect a washing machine, I also replace the rubber washers in the flexible hoses. They go hard with age and although they keep a good seal when undisturbed, they usually leak when they go back on. They don't always do it, but I prefer to just do a job once.

[Ian Stirling]

believe toolstation are still doing free delivery, so that might be the best way - simply order two valves free postage, should come to only a couple of quid.

[JM]

I may well simply buy a couple of new valves just to be sure - they're just a couple of quid each at Focus (just round the corner from me) and I'm a bit concerned that the taps on the valves aren't that effective on the current ones..

The pipes themselves aren't painted, so it'll be one of the other 3 options.

Good to know.

It's a brand-new washing machine (I've been renting up to now) which came with all the appropriate hoses, washers, etc. so I expect that they are OK.

Cheers, John.

[JM]

The installation instructions for the machine

specifically advise against using tools to tighten the connectors so that sounds right to me.

It's a new machine so that shouldn't be an issue.

John.

[Andy Dingley]

I use tools to tighten these up (and more often, to unscrew them !). However I'm using a curved jaw wrench of the right size. If you can apply enough _even_ compression to get a grip, yet still hold the nut circular, then you can apply quite some force without damage.

OTOH, if you go at it with flat-jawed Moles from opposite sides, you distort the thing. Then it breaks in no time at all. If you're really lucky you get to break the plastic valve body on the input side of the machine.

[Ian Stirling]

Sorry I wasn't clear. I'm not happy applying as much torque as I can get on the plastic, with just hands and a bit of towel, when the compression seal on the valve is taking all that torque. I was just meaning to restrain the valve from turning.

[Andrew McKay]

A pair of gas pliers can be used to nip up the connection, but don't ever apply lots of pressure to the tightening is the secret. Just hand tight and a smidgen more is all that is needed.

Fair do's. The ones I have had problems with have been machines where the supply has been disconnected, and reconnecting has resulted in a minor drip which wouldn't go away. I have had to go to the extreme of replacing the entire hot/cold feeds - they seem to get a bit fixed in their ways after they've been installed for some time and won't adapt to their new fitting.

Andrew

[Pete C]

Hi,

If the valves leak from the spindle then they are faulty, but it could be the compression joints or the washing machine connections instead.

If this is the case, try some leak sealer on the olive when assembling the compression joint, and a smear of leak sealer on both sides of the washer of the washing machine connection. Fernox leak sealer seems to have a good reputation for this sort of thing.

cheers, Pete.