Hi Bert
Sorry, I can't help with the door gear. Sounds like you need something on the commercial side?
Hand is healing well, I've been lucky.
80 tooth x 10" carbide blade beats fingers every time.Dave
But hot-dogs can get away practically unscathed!
Dave,
I'm thinking now of using built-up doors: a timber or MDF framework covered with some sort of lightweight sheeting, with bracing pieces where the pictures will hang. This should enable me to use a fairly light-duty running gear. The only question is what to use for the sheeting.
I think you might have baffled a few readers with your Asylum reference.
Glad to hear it. Last year I sliced through three fingertips with a Stanley knife and got off lightly; one tip is still numb, though. I had to endure the ambulance guys exchanging "Oh God, another DIY idiot" remarks...
Bert
I wondered about that, and perhaps treating it with something to stretch it, in the manner of theatrical flats. What do artists use to create taut canvas, I wonder?
Bert
That's what I was thinking
You can get special pliers for gripping it, but ordinary pliers will probably do. Just pull and tack, pull and tack ... It's not going to be like a drum skin, but it just has to sit there and hold the paint up :-)
Use your hands and a staple gun. Use untreated artists canvas (raw duck or similar - I found some in Ikea recently) - but you could probably use any fairly heavy cotton (just don't get pre-primed canvas).
Find a large space, lay the canvas on the floor and put the stretcher flat on top. Start in the middles and then stretch evenly with large gaps towards the ends always working from side to side around the stretcher. Then do the gaps and then the gaps between them in the same way so the whole thing is as even as possible (just keep going around filling gaps until it looks evenly stretched and the weave doesn't go in and out along the edges). Do the corners last (getting neat folds is fiddly).
When you are done, work either water or a water emulsion mix (if you want it primed and able to take oil) into the canvas with a large emulsion brush. Scrub it right into the canvas and make sure you get through the water tension so the canvas feels wet from the back. When it dries it will tighten up much further - if you pulled it really tight in the first step, your main difficulty will be making the stretcher stiff enough so it doesn't twist or even collapse with the tension.
You could leave out the water/priming step of course. Also make sure you have a few inches overlap round the back to grab onto and don't trim until you are completely finished and then don't go too close to the staples.
Choco, many thanks for the detailed reply. I believe I'll give it a go.
Bert
Just think what a let down it would have been for Goldfinger, though
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