I will be fitting drainage for a back to wall toilet, consisting of a vertical outlet from the floor. What type of termination should I have sticking out of the floor ? Just a plain black (brown ?) 110mm pipe ? Or something with a moulded socket on the end ? Cheers, Simon.
doesn't really matter.
I spent a merry evening in a tight corner using a grinding disk on an electric drill, trying to cut a 110mm pipe flush with the floor..
..once done, the toilet was easy with a suitable adapter.
How about a "pan" connector such as this (straight one shown, but 'bent' ones are available)?
Mine is about 1cm above the floor. It has a 90 degree plastic adaptor going into it.
sm_jamieson wibbled on Wednesday 24 February 2010 23:42
What I did was to solvent weld a 110 push socket (so that's a 110 push socket on one side, solvent weld socket on the other adaptor) to the 110 pipe that poked up though the floor. That way, the joint buried in the floor is bomb proof (more or less) but i still have a socket joint which can be taken apart above.
I found, height wise that it was best to have the adaptor set partly into the floor so the socket was the right height to accept the appropriate fittings and allow enough fall. Now that was probably differnet to your setup in that my rising pipe was to one side of the loo in the corner of the room. If your pipe is directly under the loo spigot, I *suspect* that the socket could be higher, in which case, just present a 110 pipe in the right place, a foot out from the floor and trim it back to the right level when you come to assemble the loo. This assumes that you are using a bog-110 coupler, which are rarer (I went to some trouble to find one, better IMO to have 110 from as close to the bog as possible). Most of the couplers in B&Q I think are designed just to push into plain 110 pipe in which case you have more flexibility.
So, first I would procure the fittings you intended to use, try a test fit and see how things align. Then plan how you are going to present the pipe.
I assume it's a solid floor?
If so, just concrete a vertical piece of 110mm pipe into the floor and cut it off at floor level. Then use a 90 degree pan connector - which has concentric rubber seals on the end, and just plugs into the 110mm pipe. Obviously, you'll have to position the pipe fairly accurately.
Thats what I had concluded. I was going to place the pipe as close as possible to the wall the toilet will back onto. I assume the 90 degree pan connector has some play in and out against the spigot on the toilet. It will be placed centrally along the wall.
If precision is that important, I'll have to get the toilet first, but I hope that is not necessary.
Simon.
Aye, just concreting in the 110 pipe in some random place then hoping you can get something that will connect the pan outlet to it without a lot of faff is not wise.
We don't even know if the pan has a horizontal or vertical outlet for a start. The OP also mentions "back to wall" which I take to mean that the outlet and pipe connection is all hidden by a skirt on the pan going back to the wall, access might be a tad difficult...
Get the pan and position things to fit or at the very least decide on the pan and get the dimensions etc from the makers website.
Easiest is if you have a stub pipe sticking up (110mm plastic) once you have finished floor levels (screed, tiles or whatever) then cut this off flush with floor and insert a rubber socket connector .... WC waste will push straight into connector.
It depends on the WC itself how far this needs to be from wall etc.
These things can solve a lot of problems
problems
Yeh, i've seen those. I wondered if they collect "matter" in the grooves. Simon.
All pan connectors collect "matter" :-)
In a large building that I visit frequently they are the cause of frequent blockages, they serve a purpose but avoid them if you can.
fred wibbled on Thursday 25 February 2010 22:50
If you can use a smooth fitting, so much the better. If you can use a 110 bog coupler, even better - that leaves the bog u-bend about the only place a blockage could occur.
The flexi fittings are handy if there is no other choice, but I don't see much point in basing a new installation on them.
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