Various Kitchen Qs

[TheScullster]

Hi all

Back on the kitchen refurb!

Wiring - 17th Edition/Part P Applies!

If you have a cooker point at the same height as sockets, how do you chase "passsed" the cooker point to continue the ring beyond it?

Rather than chasing a long way horizontally round the room, is it acceptable to: chase down below work top level, run cable in trunking down behind unit carcase to just-above-floor level (within plinth height of units), run horizontally in trunking to below the next socket location, then trunk and chase back up above work top for next socket?

Cooker Hoods

Do the current cooker hoods have an outlet behind the vertical column above the extraction cover straight out throught the wall IYSWIM, or is it necessary to duct off the top of the hood in the ceiling/loft space above? Is the cooker hood wired from above with fixed wiring?

Plinth Heaters (Myson Kickspace)

Do these fit OK under the modern cabinets with leg supports? Is it worth going for 2 Model 500s rather than 1 Model 800 to get better distribution of heat (total max calculated heat input required = 2.2Kw) Can 2 units be controlled from the same thermostat?

Flooring

Is it usual to floor the entire area, then fit kitchen, or fit kitchen then floor the areas that are on show? If the latter is done, presumably the legs will have to be extended on all units to ensure that there will be room under worktops for appliances.

TIA

Phil

[ARWadsworth]

Just take the ringmain cables behind the cooker switch back box in a small chase.

Yes

For straight out the wall usually a 5 inch hole through the wall somewhere behind the chimney and flexible ducting from the extractor through this hole

I usually put a fused spur ontop of a nearby wall unit and then run a length of 1.5T&E from it to behind the chimney.

Are you intending to fit a seperate roomstat?

Cheers

Adam

[sm_jamieson]

I'll have to do this soon. I have it on my full plans. How are you complying with part P ? Simon.

[Chris J Dixon]

Isn't that mandatory for Part L? One stat should be fine for two heaters, if you are using water, as it is only the fans you are switching.

It is hard to comment on heat distribution without knowing your kitchen layout. They do have quite a long throw.

As far as fitting under the cabinets is concerned, then you need to look at the dimensions. My kitchen units have quite shallow plinths, and the fitters had to steal a little extra height to get the Myson in. Only you can tell what is going on beneath your intended units, and what their widths are between legs.

Chris

[ARWadsworth]

Probably not a requirement to add a room stat to make the kitchen a seperate zone as there are some basic controls on the Myson. It is however certainly worth fitting one if the kitchen is ripped to bits and the plinth heaters are the only source of heat. TBH I have only seen them used as a supplementary heat source.

One wall stat will control two heaters as the pumps are only about 30W.

Cheers

Adam

[Andrew Gabriel]

It's usual to fit flooring to the areas that are on show, but this isn't sensible IMO, and isn't what I've done.

Which do you expect to last longer - the floor or the units? If it's the floor, then do wall-to-wall before installing the units. If it's the units, then put the floor down afterwards (and you can replace it later if necessary).

Yes, or you might not fit appliances under the worktops.

[js.b1]

Indeed, routing them through the same backbox as the cooker will be "futile" re space.

That is unless it's the old "Drax sized" cooker switch & backbox :-)

[John Rumm]

Chase deeper - just take care when fixing the cooker backbox!

Yup - or the reverse - chase up to the ceiling and then either do the horizontal run in the ceiling void, or use the 150mm cabling zone at the intersection of wall and ceiling.

Depends on the hood. Some have the option of straight out of the back as well as ducted.

Usually fed from a fused spur somewhere...

Don't know...

The former is easier but more expensive - so it depends on the cost of the floor really.

They usually offer enough adjustment anyway to allow such choices to be made.

[Chris J Dixon]

All they have is an "off/ low/ high" fan speed switch, plus an internal thermostat which will only run the fan if the water pipe is hot. The latter is in parallel with a second switch permitting the fan to run for circulation only in summer.

In my kitchen, a Myson is the only heat source. Since I have set the thermostat relatively low, it only kicks in on really cold mornings, as the kitchen is otherwise well enough heated from cooking and solar gain.

Chris

[TheScullster]

"ARWadsworth" wrote

GOOD

OK

YES

Thanks for feedback Adam

[TheScullster]

"Chris J Dixon" wrote

Yes it will be the water type I use

Good point

The plinth height is 150mm. I am talking to the kitchen supplier about this but was looking for general feedback.

Thanks Chris

Phil

[TheScullster]

"sm_jamieson" wrote snip.............kitchen wiring stuff

I'll have to do this soon. I have it on my full plans. How are you complying with part P ? Simon.

If it is part of your building regs submission, then your Building Control Department should inspect first fix and final test at no extra charge. I believe all this is covered in Part P somewhere but someone will be along to remind us of the appropriate clause.

Phil

[larkim]

We had relatively expensive flooring (good quality tiles) so saved a few =A3=A3=A3 by not tiling to the walls under the kitchen units. I think we left something like a 500mm gap between the tiles and the wall, so in our case saved c. 7.5m2 of tiling expense.

That was all on the expectation that even if the kitchen units didn't last 20 years, we would simply replace units in exactly the same place anyway (its the only logical layout for our kitchen) so we would never expect to have to tile that area.

Matt

[TheScullster]

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote

Thanks Andrew

How much effort should be put in to getting said floor level? Laying a straight edge over it shows something like a 10mm run off to the sides. Is it necessary to try to rectify such a (relatively) small amount, or just adjust the unit legs on installation? Also, if I do build the floor up, it could generate a significant step at an internal doorway.

Phil

[TheScullster]

"John Rumm" wrote

Thanks John

[TheScullster]

Hi all

For those who have been kind enough to reply to this post, here is a link to the current version of the layout.

[TheScullster]

Should have mentioned - you will need to select 3D View button on right, then use the navigation and rotation controls to see something (fairly) meaningful.

Phil

[sm_jamieson]

Unfortunately - no chance ! I think they are allowed to charge extra now anyway - there is another thread on it. They required my building spec to say I would supply an electrical certificate. The phrase is: "An electrical installation certificate as defined in BS 7671 will be given to Building Control prior to completion." I didn't know better at the time. So its down to me to get a certificate. Somehow ;-) Simon.

[Chris J Dixon]

can make your choices, but we nearly went with a built-in fridge/freezer, then looked at how much extra capacity we could get in a freestanding one that was 600 mm wide.

Chris

[TheScullster]

"Chris J Dixon" wrote

Wise words! Unfortunately, there is a head on clash here between aesthetics and functionality. The fridge freezer is due to be located in one of the three tall units behind the door. Originally, I had a stand alone model in place of one of these, but er-indoors says no. Maybe if I mention the capacity argument this might give some leverage hhmmmmm...

Phil