URGENT Leaking hot water cylinder (pressurised) HELP

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Hi all
I've just spent ages looking at what I've got - and I think its all clicked and I understand it. The cylinder has 4 pipes (excluding pressure/temp releif) - boiler in/return; cold feed and hot out.
The boiler in/return is linked via an electric valve to the heating system, so this circut is under about 2 bar pressure controlled with its own pressure vessle/release valve.
So - I reckon I could loop the boiler feeds, and put a stop-cock on the cold feed and the hot water out. This would mean I could have cold water and heating and not worry about the cylinder - and okay - no hot water.
In which case, I'd be 100% confident of ripping out the cylinder without doing any damage.
Assuming a replacement of a vented (aka thermal storage) system - from what I've found on the web, I'd just need to connect up the right pipe to the right hole and I'd have hot water again. Is it as LOGICALLY easy as that? (I know how to de/repressurise the boiler/heating loop).
Any comments welcome, and I've got a few more questions below. Don't worry about running before walking, I never jump too quickly! Also - if I'm right about the issolation bit - its okay as we don't need hot water as we can go to the local swimming pool for a swim and shower every day!!! ;) SO I can take my time!
Some questions if I may be so bold 1 - is my understanding logically okay? 2 - any recommended systems / suppliers (UB or SL area) 3 - do systems normally come with all fixings and instruction manuals!!!? 4 - a phosphor de-scaler was noted in this thread. What is this and where does it fit? 5 - whats the thing I have on the boiler feeds on the tank. Red thing with long white wire. Is it a flow switch? If so - whats it for and whats its current purpose? 6 - any recommendations for websites to look at appreciated
You have all been unbelieveably helpful - and are giving me some confidence to undertake this (only replacing with the storage type!!). IF I could get a plumber I'd be happy to pay, watch and learn, but they are just so busy they aren't interested!
Any comments welcome - and if you want to talk to me directly you can via my email address which is on http://www.ryanandmel.com - under PERSONAL INFORMATION. (username=jones / password=jones)
THANKS AGAIN!
RJ

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See my post on the Pandora. This looks like what you need. Simple, no overflow and only 4 pipes require connecting. Less work replacing with this than with a new unvented cylinder.
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After all the advice here and elsewhere - we got a quote from plumber for 500 + 250 labour + vat to replace with another unvented system (ariston); and to DIY with thermal store was about 700 + bits + a few new tools.
So - went with plumber.
Hmmm.
Never ever ever again. Not slagging off all plumbers as I'm sure you guys aren't like this - but 20-30 visits to van (minimum) at slow walking pace, and taking ages over doing anything - it gets put in in 8 hours - and I get charged 500 labour not 250.
WHAT!? Not really fair.
Oh - and do you need to be qualified to put it in? No offence to the advice - but no - it was easily doable by a good DIYer. And the extra tests for building regs and unvented systems? What test!?
1 - big label: "THIS MUST BE EARTHED" and an earth bolt underneath. No cable... 2 - Tundish must be seen. (old one couldn't) - so he moved it so it could be seen. Fair enough. Manual says "do not bend pipe or put in any angles until > 300mm from tundish). Mine is about 160mm 3 - Testing pressure valve and drainage? Never heard/saw it tested. Guy never checked the exit pipework - I know because the back door was locked.
But - he did tidy up after him and remove the old crap.
But why so slow!? Just to make a days job out of it IMO. Tossers. I'mnot sure I could have done in the time he did - but I'm no expert! I mean - it took 2 hours to drain the old tank. WHY!!!!? I know damn well I could have done that in 10-20 mins!!
Rant over.
I've learned a lot (mainly from you guys here - many many thanks - but also learned that some tradesman (and employees of big plumber company) are a bunch of gits. Only go on recommendations from now on!
But job done - and no leaks!
RJ
snipped-for-privacy@mail.com (RJ) wrote in message

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Thermal stores are available for far less than 700.
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IMM wrote:

Whilst on the subject, scaling seems to be an issue, at least in the minds of blurb writers. Any useful experiences?
Chris
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On price? The Albion Mainsflow DHW Mainflow can be obtained for around 500 (this has an internal heat transfer coil), as can the Range Cylinders thermal store.
500 for an Ariston unvented cylinder is at the bottom end of the quality range.

You should put on the cold feed a phosphor decaling canister. This applies to unvented cylinders, thermal stores, heat banks and combi's.
With a heat bank using an external plate heat exchanger, it is a matter of valving off , removing the plate and descaling it. A very easy almost DIY job.
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mike r
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On 4 Feb 2004 07:01:33 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@mail.com (RJ) wrote:

Blimey. That'd buy me for a week! I've been thinking about putting my prices up.....
PoP
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Just remember. Why does a dog lick its balls.........??

.andy
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wrote:

Err, dunno. However if you are suggesting you'll give me 500 notes to lick a dogs balls, forget it. And I know this is the DIY forum but I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to lick my own..... ;)
PoP
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Exacry. Because it can........
.andy
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wrote:

Slightly related, but I was watching the Discovery animal program yesterday morning ("watching" is an overstatement - I was flicking the channels during breakfast and this caught my eye).
On it was featured a dog which had been involved in a car accident at a young age - two legs had been amputated, both on the same side of the body.
Incapacitated dog? Not on your life - this mutt was bounding around like a normal dog, chasing balls etc. Someone forgot to tell it that it couldn't walk or run.
About the only thing I could see this dog compromised by was when it was passing a lamp post - it was a male dog and obviously cocking its leg would have meant instant collapse. The program didn't explain what happened in this situation.....
PoP
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On 4 Feb 2004 07:01:33 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@mail.com (RJ) wrote:

DIdn't you have a fixed price on the labour.

Yes of course it is. None of this is rocket science.

It should be bonded.

That's clearly laid out in the approved docs to the building regulations, IIRC. It doesn't have the force of law but is recommended good practice.

Something, I suppose. Realistically, this was a day's work, but I would have expected a better job.

.andy
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Hi,
Not a bad idea to get a quotation, then get in it writing, then get it to include everything that needs to be done.
Don't leave anything to chance or assume anything!
cheers, Pete.
On 4 Feb 2004 07:01:33 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@mail.com (RJ) wrote:

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It *can* take 2 hours or more to drain a tank. Local council plumbers on piece work are not keen to take on element (side entry) replacement tickets as a result because they get paid an hour and a half to replace the element. They lose bonuses if they attend to a tank while draining or have to leave several tanks draining unattended all over town.

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