I've ruled out metal frames as they're just not aesthetically pleasing.
So, the choice is either uPVC or wood. uPVC is maintenance free but looks a bit crap...
Which would you go for, and why?
I .think. I'll go for wood - can anyone tell me what maintenance will be required and how often?
Thanks in advance.
Sean.
Am I the only person on the planet that thinks that Aluminium frames look really rather good?
Agreed
Delete the word 'bit' and I'll agree again
If you get a good hardwood frame, have it properly treated before installation then stained or painted if needed after insulation it will need little attention. Oak can possibly even be left 'as is' until well after you're dead.
It is poor quality softwood frames that gave wood a bad name and led to the uPVC explosion. Note that not all softwood frames are crap, but most seem to be.
On ships or planes ?
No, I like them too. On anything built post WW1
uPVC is rarely maintenance free. I've seen more skanky looking plastic windows than wooden.
I didn't see the original question, but I'm guessing the answer goes something like:
Use the windows that are appropriate for the age and design of the property. If it originally had metal Critall windows, then find modern replacements. If it is a Victorian property, get proper wooden sashes. If it is a 1980s Baratt hutch, get uPVC.
Painting every 5 to 7 years, occasional touching up between.
uPVC seems to require wholesale replacement every 10 to 15 years or so. A good quality hardwood wooden window, well maintained, will last for centuries. Even a cheap softwood frame will last many decades, with the right treatment and care, whilst higher quality softwoods can also last centuries.
Christian.
Make that more like one, limping on to two with patching. My experience with two from Magnet - which were sold as pressure treated.
Have you looked at powder-coated aluminium? We've got a pair of Monarch Monaframe patio doors & they're by far the best "windows" in the house. They've only been in for 4 years now but show absolutely no signs that they'll suffer the staining/weathering issues of uPVC.
(Barring wood) they were the only choice for the particular location as they have much less bulky frames than uPVC & therefore gave a decent glass/frame ratio.
They were fitted pre-building regs part L, but I'm sure that when I did a web search last year they were still very much available, so I presume that they can be part L compliant.
The only downside is the cost - rather higher than cheap uPVC.
Perhaps the name of the new group isn't clear enough after all. :)
Follow-ups set.
I made a new sash window in my house 15 years ago from bog standard softwood and now it hardly needs a lick of paint. The Magnet pressure treated softwood windows put in at the same time are falling to pieces BUT sliding sashes are protected from the weather by 6" or so of masonry whereas the Magnet windows were flush with the wall. I think the situation is probably more important than the type of wood. If you want a deep sill on the inside, I'd go for plastic or aly.
Mine are over >100 years old.
Bought from Magnet? ;-)
I too have timber windows over 100 years old, but they were made from
*real* wood.What are we talking about here? Picture frames, spectacles, Door frames? Or are we supposed to psychic?
Mine were made from cheap crap. But they were well painted when they went it.
Just a small point but think 'resaleability' for the future.
Personally I prefer uPVC frames as they are virtually maintenance free - plus I detest painting frames or anything else come to think of it.
When I was was househunting, a couple of otherwise suitable properties were ruled out as they had wood frames on the windows.
As I was already on a budget with the house purchase I could not have afforded to replace the windows and I had no desire to fork out for painting them nor to do the actual work.
Most housebuyers would never consider it - however in today's busy times people want things to be as maintenance free as possible.
sarah
Is NT as good as XP?
I've not seen cheap crap timber used in the UK 100 years ago?
My original sash windows had no paint at all on the sides of the frames - ie the wall side.
Oh boy was it. They started using (importing ?) some dire pine and other softwoods around then. Before that English hardwoods tended to dominate. Our place has had bits added over the centuries and it is the 1890s bit that needed the most wood replacement. There's an oak beam possibly from the
1600s further down the corridor with hardly a mark on it.
Hmm. I bet you actually bought good wood for the window you made yourself whereas Magnet bulk bought crap.
It would be wood for me as we have now stained not painted and a re-stain every 2 years keeps them looking lovely.
Interesting comment on the use of 'real timber' given a recent announcement from Jeld-Wen who are moving to laminated timber for all there window products.
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