UK wiring diagrams domestic

Cheers, I ordered the Collins book last night so will make an evening "light" reading when it comes (pardon the pun) have wall chaser and back box sinker in hand and have found out building regs as regards drilling holes in joists. The only point I need to clarify on building regs is where the joist is flush with the wall and I need to run a cable to the wall if I am allowed to use a notch ( i have read the allowable amount per joist size) and use a nail plate over the notch for cable protection?

Reply to
steve
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I would normally drill through the centre of the joist.

You can usually make a big enough channel in the plaster and fabric of the wall to do this. I use a good auger to drill most of the hole and then an old one to complete it. That way if the auger strikes the wall fabric and blunts itself then it is not much of a loss.

Notching and plating a joist is usually a last resort.

John

Reply to
John White

thanks John, thats what I'll do !!

Cheers again,

Reply to
steve

Hi John, I have noticed a problem, the centres of the joists are too close together to allow acces with a drill !! I take it drilling at an angle is a no go, as compared to drilling at 90. Is the other option to take the cables around the rooms from a 150mm band around the top and corners? or will a right angled drill adaptor do the trick?

cheers

Reply to
steve

Well I don't like drill adaptors so I use one of these:

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these auger bits:
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?id=12082Which will fit in most situations.

Failing that use one of these bits, aim for just above the joist centre and get the drill as close to the floor as possible:

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Reply to
John White

For anybody who doesn't want the expense of a right angled drill, a 9mm hex socket will drive the Screwfix stubby augers, or for really tight situations a 9mm ratchet ring spanner is ideal. Works great in softwood, not tried it in oak though.

Jim A

Reply to
Jim Alexander

Buy a cheap[1] spade bit, and hacksaw it down so that it is just a tad over joist thickness. In an odinary mains drill or a cordless drill it normally then fits between the joists.

[1] You could also use a decent quality spade bit, but then you may need an angle grinder to cut off the shank as the metal will be harder!
Reply to
John Rumm

Cheers - another order to screfix on the way !!!!

Reply to
Staffbull

Nice idea ! I'll give that a go first, definateley the cheaper option :-)

Reply to
Staffbull

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