Two power tool questions.

[David Paste]

Hello all,

1. I have a Bosch power drill with a 'traditional' chuck - uses a key to ti= ghten it up. Is it possible to remove this chuck and put on a keyless chuck= ?

1. I have a circular saw, and in the instructions (yes, I actually read the= m!) it says that the depth of the blade should be set to just a little more= than the depth of the board to be cut, so for example, if I am cutting a s= heet of 18mm ply, I'd have the blade set to 20mm. Why is this recommended o= ver just having the blade at maximum depth?

Thanks in advance for any answers,

David Paste.

[newshound]

tighten it up. Is it possible to remove this chuck and put on a keyless chuck?

Don't know about Bosch, but on my old mains B&D you put the chuck key in place, give it a sharp tap anticlockwise with a mallet, and the chuck unscrews.

[Bob Minchin]

tighten it up. Is it possible to remove this chuck and put on a keyless chuck?

it says that the depth of the blade should be set to just a little more than the depth of the board to be cut, so for example, if I am cutting a sheet of 18mm ply, I'd have the blade set to 20mm. Why is this recommended over just having the blade at maximum depth?

1.Usually but you are likely to regret it. Most keyless chucks are rubbish. 2.Because it minimses the exit tooth angle and reduces splintering.

[Mike Clarke]

Some chucks have an extra securing screw which screws into the end of the shaft. If so open the chuck wide and you'll see it - I think it will have a left handed thread.

Chucks come in 2 different thread sizes so you'll need to remove the original to check the size before ordering a new one.

[John Rumm]

tighten it up. Is it possible to remove this chuck and put on a keyless chuck?

Quite often yes... some chucks just unscrew, others have a reverse threaded screw you need to undo inside the chick which you get to from the front opening (open it to max size and look down the end)

You will only be able to fit a two handed chuck in replacement though, since the single handed ones require an automatic spindle lock on the drill which yours won't have.

it says that the depth of the blade should be set to just a little more than the depth of the board to be cut, so for example, if I am cutting a sheet of 18mm ply, I'd have the blade set to 20mm. Why is this recommended over just having the blade at maximum depth?

Its slightly safer, since there is less chance of damaging something close to the underside of what you are cutting - and most of the blade is hidden in the wood for most of the time the guard is not covering it.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

The only keyless chuck I have which works well is on a drill designed for it - the drill has a sort of one way clutch and locks up when you tighten the chuck, so only needs one hand on the chuck. The type that need two hands on the chuck don't seem to tighten enough.

[F Murtz]

Drills that have a reverse usually have a screw inside the chuck to stop the chuck coming off in reverse.