Trianco Boiler Cutting Out Constantly

[technics100]

Hi

I have a trianco eurotrader boiler, in a external boiler house. I ha the oil pump, motor and photocell replaced approx one month ago afte the boiler wouldn't work. Since then the boiler has continued to tri every once and a while. Now it it tripping after a couple of minutes. I have had a look at the forum and have taken the plug out of the wate pump to see if it is turning - it is turning but I can't see if it i pumping alot of water. Should alot of water come out of this hole whe the pump is running and the plug is out? If I press the button on th trip the boiler fires up and works for a short period then trip again. Any help is appreciated as I have already spent £190 on the above item and am weary of the person who fixed the boiler. I don't know whethe to believe him or not.

cheer

-- technics100

[John]

Is the oil supply restricted by a blocked oil filter or a mostly closed valve? Is the fuel contaminated with water? If its tripping the lockout on the burner it will not be the heated water system which is causing it. Which make of burner is fitted to the boiler since Trianco use several types such as Riello, Inter-oil, RDB, Monoflame etc etc. Certainly if you have already had a new motor, oil pump, and photocell there is a limited number of possible other alternatives provided the parts fitted were new. Can you describe exactly what happens step by step from starting to lockout along with the timing. As a guide the burner motor should start to rotate, run for a few seconds driving the fan to purge the combustion chamber clear with fresh air, The ignition spark will commence and then the oil solenoid valve will open usually with an audible click. At this point you should hear the flame ignite. The light of the flame will illuminate the photocell which informs the sequence control box it is healthy. The ignition spark stops and the burner continues to run until the thermostat is satisfied or the power is removed. If no flame light is seen within about 10 seconds the burner stops and the sequence control goes to lockout. This varies but it will not reset straight away on most sequence controllers, requiring a few minutes to allow an internal timer to reset

[technics100]

Is the oil supply restricted by a blocked oil filter or a mostly closed

valve? Is the fuel contaminated with water? If its tripping the lockout on the burner it will not be the heate water system which is causing it. Which make of burner is fitted to the boiler since Trianco use severa types such as Riello, Inter-oil, RDB, Monoflame etc etc. Certainly if yo have already had a new motor, oil pump, and photocell there is a limite number of possible other alternatives provided the parts fitted were new. Can you describe exactly what happens step by step from starting t lockout along with the timing. As a guide the burner motor should start to rotate, run for a fe seconds driving the fan to purge the combustion chamber clear with fresh air The ignition spark will commence and then the oil solenoid valve will open usually with an audible click. At this point you should hear the flame ignite. The light of the flame will illuminate the photocell whic informs the sequence control box it is healthy. The ignition spark stops an the burner continues to run until the thermostat is satisfied or the powe is removed. If no flame light is seen within about 10 seconds the burne stops and the sequence control goes to lockout. This varies but it will no reset straight away on most sequence controllers, requiring a few minutes t allow an internal timer to reset

The boiler does everything as you describe and will run from cold unti it get hot and then it seems to trip. It trips a transparent box whic lights amber, I just press the button in the middle of this box and th light goes out, the boiler starts and runs until it trips again. trip sooner when its hot

I was reading this forum and around the net and thought that the centra heating pump wasn't pumping the hot water away from the boiler quic enough thus causing it to trip. I left the boiler on a very low tem setting all day and it has been running fine for approx 14hrs. Is ther any way to check the pump, to make sure its pumping at the right speed. its a Grundfos UPS15-50. Any suggestion is appreciated.

cheer

-- technics100

[John]

SNIP

Thr transparent box will probably say Sartronic 830 or something similar on it and this is the sequence control which operates the burner and monitors the flame when a heat demand is present. You still haven't told me what make the burner is but using a Sartronic suggests you may have an Inter-Oil burner unit with a Danfoss oil pump (the black block thing with the oil pipe going in). If you do then depending on the age it will probably have a solenoid coil mounted on a shaft. One fairly common failure mode found of late is for these coils to go open circuit when hot but remake when cooled by an indeterminate amount taking anything from a couple of minutes to several hours for the problem to occur. Its sheer indeterminate period often makes it very difficult to pin down. Other makes of fuel pump are also used so all I can reiterate is please give full details of your burner and oil pump etc. BTW have you checked the oil filter yet and was there any coating of sediment/muck on the element?

Not all boilers have an overheat trip and in general all the overheat trip will do is remove all power from the boiler panel thus "usually" the power on light and others are simply dead along with the boiler until the overheat stat is manually reset. The lockout button has no connection with the thermostat system. This does suggest howver that the burner will fire for shorter run periods and whatever is causing the lockouts is not getting the same energised periods and avoiding the thermal effects.

[technics100]

Hi

The sequential control is indeed a Sartronic 830, I dont know where th burner is, The oil pump is Danfoss Type BFP 11LS, the motor is benton with a box above it which is Danfoss Type EBI.

Where is the oil filter and how do I check it? also how do I check fo contanination in the oil? Where is the solenoid?

sorry about all the questions but I am new to this.

cheers for your hel

-- technics100

[John]

The EB1 electronic ignition generator could be a prime suspect especially with thermal effects being suspected. Since you said in an earlier post the oil pump was new this should be out of the loop for tracking this fault. Presumably the motor capacitor is integral with the motor but if not this is another possible option especially if you can watch the unit for some time and maybe catch it being sluggish to start the motor spinning.

The solenoid is the bit with the flex connected to it on the oil pump discharge. The oil filter is usually on the outlet from the oil tank but sometimes inside the house or boiler casing. To carry out a basic check on the fuel system try shutting the oil supply valve, disconnect the oil pipe from the pump, put the end into a clear (clean) bottle at least 2 litres, turn on the oil and run about 1.5 litres of oil in to check that it flows freely and fast enough to satisfy a usage rate of about 5 or 6 litres per hour for every 1000 BTU of boiler rating. Turn off and restore the connections. Allow the sample in the bottle to stand and look to see if you can see any water lying in the bottom of the bottle (under the fuel) or any debris of any kind. Then dip a small piece of rag into the liquied, take it outside and light it in a safe place. If it burns easily you should be ok on that front.

[technics100]

I had the boiler guy out today to have a look at it. He said that th

oil had water in it, but couldn't see where it was getting in. The oi line runs underground for a few meters, so it may have a hole in it an be taking in water. He replaced the jet and said it was soaked wit water. Boiler is running now, but I just have to find out where th water is getting in

-- technics100

[Rod Hewitt]

technics100 wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Condensation within the storage tank? Seems more likely than water pushing its way into a pipe.

[John]

"technics100" wrote in message news: [e-mail]...

Very unlikely to be entering against the pressure of oil within the pipe! The usual place for water to get in to oil is via the top of the tank which someone has stood upon causing the "dishing" to collect rainwater which eventually rust through. Other places possible are sight gauges which have lost their rain cap and are located under a leaking gutter, tank lids which fit poorly and are under a leaking gutter also. Is your tank located where someone you could have upset might find it entertaining to put a hose into it? Its a very remote possibility that you might have had a contaminated load delivered but I'd put this a long way behind any other sources. If your tank is set up correctly it should slope away from the outlet and have a drain at the low end. If you have one, run some off from here into a bucket and check visually and by dipping a bit of cloth for a burnability test for water ( I went to a tank last year which had been vandalised and found clear liquid for a depth of about 200mm but it wouldn't burn, after a lot of draining off this underlying water eventually fuel arrived). Its often possible to get rid of any water collected in the tank via this method, in fact in days of old it was normal to do this as part of a six monthly service, usually blaming water found on condensation rather than the real source of refinery contamination. Modern production and storage methods have all but stopped water being delivered in the fuel.

[johnjessop46]

Hopefully a bit more help re oil boilers

[Tim+]

Ya know, if you want to be helpful try posting a link.

Tim

[johnjessop46]

The whole thread appears in my browser but ymmv?

[Andy Burns]

Most people here aren't using a web browser, they're using a proper news reader and a proper news server, i.e. straight to the horse's mouth

You replying with a "one liner" with no quoted material doesn't really help anyone ... other than they could lookup the article-ids in your references header.

[johnjessop46]

Thanks for the clarification. I was trying to leave some useful information for Dave Baker with his boiler failure but my mobile access obviously doesn't suit everyones method of reading. I'll leave it at that.

[John Rumm]

This would appear to be the one:

$20Boiler$20Cutting$20Out$20Constantly/uk.d-i-y/jkmwiRv_PK8/qkPkGE2_ZccJ

[Fredxxx]

You've been told once it's netiquette to quote some relevant information and you still go against Usenet convention.

Your reply is possibly over 11 years late, don't you think the problem would have been solved by now, one way or another?

[John Rumm]

I think you may be missing the point - he was highlighting that information in that old thread would be relevant to a recent one - not attempting to post new information to it.

The delivery of the message may have been flawed, but in this occasion it does not warrant the shooting of the messenger!