Tongue and groove as splashback - when to install?

[Tracy]

Hi I am planning to install tongue ang groove as slashbacks instead of tiles. Has anyone done this? Is it better to install before worktop is in place or 'on top' of the worktop? I think it seems better to install the T&G first, but this means sending away the kitchen installers before the job is done in order to install T&G (by other tradesmen) and then have the kitchen installers back to complete the job - is this sensible and will they wear this? any other tips appreciated too. Thanks Tracy

[Tracy]

Hi I am planning to install tongue ang groove as slashbacks instead of tiles. Has anyone done this? Is it better to install before worktop is in place or 'on top' of the worktop? I think it seems better to install the T&G first, but this means sending away the kitchen installers before the job is done in order to install T&G (by other tradesmen) and then have the kitchen installers back to complete the job - is this sensible and will they wear this? any other tips appreciated too. Thanks Tracy

[The Natural Philosopher]

I think afterwards would be OK, but yuu must seal everything well.

Softwood T & G is pretty awful stuff mind you..my wife asked me to use it in one bathroom, and the amount of time and money I spend on knotting, plastic wood, primer (three coats rubbed down) undercoat (two coats, rubbed down) before the final topcoat, was really more expensive than tiling.

Still at least you can't see the awful coarse grain anymore..

I would tend not t use it again unless its having a clear lacquer finish and you like the Bavarian piney look. Even then the seal between worktop and wall is going to be an issue. I'd probably use 1/4 round mouldings bedded down on clear silicone for that.

[Andrew Gabriel]

Buy it some time before you need it. Unwrap it and leave it to dry out in the room, so it does all its shrinking before you fit it. Some lengths may twist and split so get more than you need so you can choose the best ones to use. Drying out will also make it take whatever water sealant you use much better.

I haven't tried this, but I would be tempted to apply at least the first coat of whatever sealant you use before assembly, so it gets fully into the T&G. I use a similar trick when fitting exterior facias -- dry out, cut to size and temporarily fit to check sizing, take down, do all the surface prep and finishing, and then refit.

[Grunff]

I haven't used t&g as a splashback, but I have used it as a bath panel. I would not recommend using it as a splashback - it may look nice, but it will be much harder work to keep clean than tiles would, even with a high gloss varnish.

If you really don't want tiles, there are quite a few other alternatives. Sheet glass, either clear or opaque, can work very well. Similarly, a wide variety of sheet metal, such as copper (varnished) could be used. Anything smooth and wipe clean will be much easier to maintain than t&g.

If you are set on using t&g, ensure that it is sanded down very thoroughly, starting with a coarse grade and working down to 240, before varnishing with a waterproof varnish.

As for when to install, I would say definitely after the worktop, not before. This will make things much easier to finish off nicely.

[Stuart B]

Slashback...?....I'm tempted to make a joke here .lol

Stuart

[Stuart B]

I put T+G in my bathroom ...one long wall and one shorter one..when it was fashionable years ago and have just ripped it out as over the years it got quite dark and looked really old fashioned . I now have plasterboard painted white with coloured skirting and coloured tiles round the bath /shower . What a difference .It all looks so light and airy . Forget the T+G Stuart

[The Natural Philosopher]

No way. It will shrink and expand up to 5% across the grain summer to winter no matter what it has done to it other then encasing it in totally impervious resin..

HINT why do you think we use tnongue and groove?

HINT. Paint and seal the BACK of it before installing.

Some lengths may twist and split so get more than

Another trick is to paint when fully lowest moisture content..thats now, in CH heated rooms when outside air is cold.

Otherwise you get a stripe of unpainted wood when it inevitably shrinks.

Nut really, if you just want a painted panel with grooves in it, thats what God made MDF for...

>

[The Natural Philosopher]

Actually to solove a problem in my kitchen - uneven wall full of pipework and needing extra sockets..I just slung up some studs and screwed a sheet of MDF to em..wires run behind.

Took emulsion really really well, and looks brilliant and takes a little water splash OK.

MDF makes a good alternative to plasterboard where you want more strength, and water resistance. You can sure hang cupboards off it.. The only downside is that it cracks along butt joints..there is JUST enough shrinkage,,in retrospect I should have left a 3mm gap and filled it with caulk.

[Tracy]

Thanks for the feedback. I am intending to paint it, as I am having painted kitchen units installed too. Def will consider MDF and routing the grooves - thanks again

[The Natural Philosopher]

Buy it ready grooved. It exists.

[Tracy]

Hi Natural Philospher - any idea where I can buy this? Thanks very much for your help Tracy

[sm_jamieson]

I've even seen it with the grooves already in, should you with to save some time. Cheers, Simon.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Any good builders merchant..

[Tracy]

Thanks! Much appreciated Tracy

[robert]

B&Q have MDF "matchboard" sheets which is grooved to look vaguely like tongue and groove.

It is greenish which I believe means its Moisture resistant (MR ).

Travis Perkins lists it as well , but it isnt widely stocked at least not in the North. Robert

[Tracy]

Thanks Robert - that's great Tracy

[JD]

You will get much better if you use external grade MDF which is water resistant (it tends to have a green colour is how u tell it apart from normal MDF) In addition u might want to run the groves out before the edge of the work surface thus forcing any water onto the surface and not behind it. Just a few thoughts from the way we use mdf in door panels.

JD