Tiling onto plywood

Is it possible to plaster directly onto vertical plywood, maybe after treating with PVA? I've got a rather tricky RSJ to box in the new bathroom and it's a tricky position to fix studding for plasterboard.
Cheers, Rob.
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Presuming you can box it in with plywood as you seem to suggest, why not then cover it with plasterboard ?
Ruski

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Further investigation with bits of framing shows that thinner plywood wouldn't help either - there is no obvious way to get around the RSJ with a frame and plywood or plasterboard on top. However, I have another cunning plan... Assuming that you can tile onto plywood, I assume it would be okay to tile over a 1" bit of wood? What I'll have to do is construct a frame which comes out flush to the wall level but then build another smaller frame inside, set back the width of the plasterboard into which a piece of plasterboard can be fitted.
How come it's always the bits you forget about that take most time!!
Cheers, Rob.
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wall in a bathroom of a mobile home. just make sure the ply can't flex...
The Q
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It's high up just below the ceiling so shouldn't have too much stress on it. But I'll make sure it's fixed at about 2' intervals.
Cheers, Rob.
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If you couldn't fix the plasterboard I'm puzzled how you are fixing the ply? A different way over this would have been to wrap the beam with expanded metal lathing and plaster on that.
Peter
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On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:02:27 +0000, Rob Nicholson wrote:

Possibly, why not plasterboard over the ply boxing?
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Rob Nicholson wrote:

Assuming you mean "Is it possible to _tile_ directly...", the answer is yes. In fact, I'm doing just that as we speak - our ensuite is entirely 3/4" WBP, PVAed, and I'm tiling the whole thing floor to ceiling.
--
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Rob Nicholson wrote:

RSJ requires to be covered so as to be protected from fire AFAIAA, I assume its load bearing? Refer you to recent collapse of Egyptian 8 storey apartment block which had a fire in its lower floor. Bob
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assume
Covered how?

Possibly partially load bearing - there's nothing above it except two minor beams. It's not holding the roof up as that's the job of the huge beams.
Regards, Rob.
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Rob Nicholson wrote:

I believe that skimmed plasterboard gives 1/2 hr fire resistance which is probably the minimum for load bearing RSJs, plywood is not a substitute. Suggest you speak with your local building control office, they will advise you with the required fire protection. Do not rely on comments made by enthusiasts on this NG, however well meaning they may steer you into making a colossal CU, go to the above mentioned office. Regards Bob
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Suppose you know the easy way to box in an RSJ is to cut wedges out of say 4 x 2 and hammer them in? You can then nail battens across under them - then nail the plasterboard to them.
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Going to do something similar to that but can't fix straight to that as the original wall is far wider.
Cheers, Rob.
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say
the
How do you mean "far wider" ? If the RSJ is on the outer leaf and the inner leaf of the wall is dry lining, then it should be possible to fix a batten to the bottom part of the RSJ and batten across the studs of the dry lining. Once you get these battens in place the boxing in should be a doddle.
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If you can get a fixing for plywood on it, then why can't you get a fixing for plasterboard on it ? The best and strongest way is to drill two or three holes through RSJ and screw through on to battens of timber. Or simpler is to cut lengths of 2'' X 2'' just longer than the gap between the top and bottom leaves and hammer them in at a slight angle until they grip fast. These end up just like timber studs and you can fix anything you want to them if they're tight enough.
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Rob Nicholson wrote:

Why is it tricky? Can't you knock in some timber in the "I" section, and fold PB around as normal? Any good at ASCII art?
J.B.
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