Tiling on plywood

I've got to lay some floor tiles onto a chipboard floor. I've got some

12mm plywood sheet to glue and screw onto the chipboard for a better base. I know the plywood has to be sealed but I'm not sure what to seal it with.

TIA,

Reply to
Paul Giverin
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PVA, 1:3 in water.

Reply to
Grunff

Why use plywood (unless cost is your issue) I am no expert - but I was informed, and used very well indeed, concrete backerboard and screwed that to the floor. Bought from topps tiles. I actually needed some for shower walls so buying a load wasn't an issue.

If you are us> Paul Giver> > I've got to lay some floor tiles onto a chipboard floor. I've got some

Reply to
ryanjjones

Why not? Plywood makes a great surface to tile onto.

This is nonsense. Most people who go around recommending 'marine grade ply' have never even seen a sheet of the stuff, or know what it is. Exterior grade ply is all that is required. It is readily available, and very cheap.

Reply to
Grunff

Actually, I've just read the instructions on the tiling adhesive (BAL Fastflex) and it says that its the underside and edges of the plywood that needs to be sealed and not the face that the tiles are laid on.

Reply to
Paul Giverin

I seal any ply as a matter of course before tiling. Makes the adhesive stick better.

Reply to
Grunff

I'm on the BAL website at the moment looking at their fixing guides. They say about laying floor tiles onto plywood :- "The timber sheets are of a water resistant or exterior grade. They must be dry and rigid without protruding fixings. Seal the reverse side and edges with BAL BOND SBR. Do not prime or seal surfaces to be tiled".

I wonder if the flexible adhesive needs to soak into the plywood?

Reply to
Paul Giverin

flexible admix and usually its recomended to prime the floor with th same flexible admix. if you get your adhesive from a tile shop the will advise you on what to use. I've recently been using Tile Depot an they seem pretty helpfull

-- Nick H

Reply to
Nick H

Paul Whilst not wanting to go against BAL's instructions, I would always seal the surface, and wouldnt worry about the underside of the ply or edges. I have known people not to seal it and for the tiles to come off after a few weeks. With tiling the important thing is suction. This is reduced when a surface is too porous and ends up drying out the adhesive too quickly. The only reason that I can see for BAL's advise is that if the surface is completely waterproof (as BAL's product might do) then the adhesive will take a long time to go off, but it will eventually, and will acrually produce the strongest end result (I sent a post recently about this with regards to tiling over existing wall tiles- and incidently recomended BAL adhesive as one of the best around). Also make sure you use a flexi grout/additative as this is almost more important that using a flexi adhesive. I would however just go for a dilute PVA mix (even more dilute than

1:3) adding water and stirring until you get a semi-skimmed milk consistency. Additionally, 12mm ply is more than is needed, most people would go for 6mm and screw every 30cm. If screwing there is no need to glue it to the chipboard. Make sure you have plenty screws at the edges of each board and that you dont have ply joints above the chipboard joints. Hope this is helpful and not adding yet another opinion into the pot. Calum Sabey (Newark Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)
Reply to
calums

I never did.

Works fine.

Use a thickish bed of possibly flexible cement, to avoid the inevitable slight movement cracking the tiles off. Use a bit of PVA or other anti-porosity agent in the grout to stop water ingress.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

I sealed with diluted PVA and then used a specialist adhesive, Ardex Flex

7001 Timber System. You're supposed to use a special primer with this system, but my suspicion is that it is just PVA with a large markup.

The tiles haven't moved, several years later!

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Ardex is good stuff. Recommended. Its the pro solution.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Why not use cement board? Won't rot from any prolonged water exposure and is also a great surface to tile onto.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

I've never really liked the stuff - not as strong as ply, and not as nice to cut.

Reply to
Grunff

Christian (or anyone)

Do you happen to know where Ardex products can be obtained locally or on-line.

Google doesn't seem to be very revealing.

Reply to
Andy Hall

I found my supplier through a stockist search on the Ardex website.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Thanks, Christian.

Where did you go?

Reply to
Andy Hall

It was a small company run from a unit on the Elgar Road trading estate somewhere. Whether they are still there, or what they are called, I have no idea. It was a few years ago, now.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

OK. I'll see if I can find it; although it looks like there's one at Theale.

Reply to
Andy Hall

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