Certainly my Canon SLR says that it isn't suitable for use with IR films. Not sure why that is - but they must put it in there for some reason.
D
Certainly my Canon SLR says that it isn't suitable for use with IR films. Not sure why that is - but they must put it in there for some reason.
D
CCDs are based on Silicon technology and so are limited by the bandgap of silicon to work at wavelengths shorter than 1.1 microns, most near infrared LEDs work in the 0.8-0.9 microns wavelength range.
To get into the thermal infrared you really want to work at 3-10 microns wavelength which is completely different technology. HgCdTe (used in near IR instrumentation) only works up to 2.5 microns. InSb technology detectors can work out to 10 microns but may need to be cooled to avoid thermal background from the camera itself swamping the image.
Fire Brigades have used thermal cameras for rescue work and checking that no heat sources remain in a fire after it appears to be out. Perhaps asking them to look is an option.
We once borrowed a thermal IR camera to look for heat sources in a telescope dome...we managed to locate dodgy electrics, hot oil pads and all sorts of heat sources in this way.
Ian L.
Again, like the CCDs this won't give you long IR, so will not be of any use for detecting IR emitted by objects at room temperature.
Think about it - if it did, how would you stop the film from going off the minute it's produced?
with a pair of UV protection sun glasses on. You wear the glasses on your eyes and look through the view finder of the camera to see the hot spots. You won't be able to record the images because your own eyes are doing some of the work, but you will be able to see some of the hotter areas when the camera is in the night vision mode. Try to keep the background light to a bare minimum as well.
Oh no - BigWallop's gone back to making no sense at all. And it was going so well for a while...
How is a detector which is totally incapable of detecting anything above - let's be generous and say a micron - going to detect IR in the 3-4+ micron range?
Although it does seem a bit extreme to torch the place to find out where the heat losses are..........
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
No you don't. Most of EIR's response is actually to visible light so you focus normally. For a proper IR response, you'd need to use something like Kodak High Speed Infrared film (which is B+W), with a visually opaque filter. It can record interesting effects from soldering irons and the like, but isn't sensitive enough to record the kind of temperature differences we're talking about here. Actually, forget the filter, you'd need to be working in total darkness anyway to avoid the effects of reflected IR.
How about a thermometer?
Don't you mean 'were'? ;)
D
I can tell you about this one. Only the heating wasn't on in the first place.
Look, I need sympathy here.
Glenys
-- Did not.
How about a big warm hug?
By keeping it cold.
Might be a tad tricky to load though.
In message , Dave Gibson writes
Not so, the cameras in question had a high gain mode which allowed you to filter out the visible spectrum and apply high gain to the remaining IR, to which some materials are transparent.
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In message , Andy Hall writes
More of a Welsh Rarebit in Willy's case
They probably use infra-red LEDs internally for film sensing
Me bad, should think before I post if your house was "leaking" heat at 40°C you'd have real problems. rofl
This did bother me a lot but as the Kodak example is a picture of a tree which shirley must be colder than a house I assumed that some sort of black magic must be happening. Film you keep in the freezer? Cameras you keep in the fridge? Err ...
Phil
But as soon as any part of the camer reached room temperature, including the sutter or even the lens, your film is toast.
Just adequately insulate and draught proof everything possible. Forget thermal imaging - your money can be better spent.
Terry D.
Anoher thought - look up a professional photgraphic suppliers in YP, and get a infra red filter and some IR film.
Dammit. I should do this myself.!!!
An even easier solution is to go round the house touching all the surfaces. The ones that feel cold are leaking heat fast.
If there are any draughts, tackle those before anything else.
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