I can never seem to get a nice razor sharp finish to the putty after replacing the glass! Is there a secret to doing it? I've tried using a small steel ruler, and dragging it fast, too fast, slowly and even coating with Fairy liquid (which does seem to help). But I still end up either dragging the putty off the glass of getting a wavy or broken edge etc. Of course there is always the possibility I'm just no damn good at it.
Get a proper putty knife with a curved edge and use Linseed oil to keep the blade oiled.
I hate puttying glass, so I replace with quadrant beading instead.
Maybe I'll try stapling the glass in there :-) (Don't try this at home folks)!
Well you really need a try it with a decent putty knife, to get a straight sharp flat finish takes ONE pass with the knife. A second attempt usually makes a complete mess of it.
just more Practice required :-)
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Use a proper putty knife. Make sure the putty is the right consistency, it's often a bit too wet when it's fresh - you can fix this by rolling it in a few pieces of newspaper to absorb some of the oil.
Yes, me too.
I think I read somewhere that for best results use a copper blade, as it has less tendency to 'pull' the putty. I don't know any scientific reason for this, but just maybe its true.
Against that I have never seen a copper putty knife for sale. That might be because it would be quite a bit more expensive than steel, dissuading amateurs from buying it while professionals have sufficient skill to make a good job with steel, so it just isn't worth manufacturing.
Next time I'll try flattening out a bit of copper pipe to see if it works.
I tried adding a bit of extra linseed oil to the blade, but obviously I overdid it as it ended up a mess. Perhaps the technique is to frequently wipe the blade with a cloth wet with oil.
Roger
Naw - just spit on it. ;-)
Mingebag. :-)
The technique is glide the blade down the full lenght of the glass without stopping and when you come to the bottom curve the blade out towards you.
I think the trick (which I haven't mastered) is how you use the knife. Why does it have a curved and a flat side? My guess is that one of them makes it easier to form a mitre at the corners because even I can get a good finish on the straight bits.
I have the same frustrating experiences. But equally annoying is trying to keep my hands "clean". I always seem to get a lot of very oily putty on my hands which makes handling the tools and further putty tricky. Is there any way to avoid this? [I use B&Q plastic tub of putty and I work it in my hands to get it pliable enough to apply to the frame & glass. Then I struggle to get a smooth finish with the putty knife.]
Frank
Frank Stacey wrote: [snip]
Dunno about the tub stuff, I buy mine from a glazier for £1 which is enough for 2or3 panes of glass. I drop half a thimble of linseed oil in the putty then knead it in my hand till it's like that playdo stuff then get the putty knife nice and clean with wire wool and put a sliver of linseed oil all over the blade, wash me hands then start pressing a generous amount firmly into the edge of the frame'n'window clean me hands again then start from the top of the pane and draw the blade downwards at an angle till i reach the bottom, clean the blade,sliver of linseed and do the other side and so on. When it gone hard I paint it generously not worrying about wether paint gets on the glass as when its dry I'll score the paint with a sharp stanley knife where the edge of the putty is then scrape the paint off with stanley blade(I like that part but hate puttying).
To get a good seal you should make sure that you _do_ paint over the edge onto the glass.
Make sure the putty is fresh and well kneaded before applying.
There is...quadrant beading as I stated earlier up the thread. :-)
Sounds like a satisfying skill to acquire but very old fashioned and time consuming for the average diyer. There must be a better/quicker way with modern materials.
Beading rots very quickly, especially the bottom bit. Putty is quick to apply and does last reasonably well if you get a coat of oil paint on it straight away. Mastic is the best bet for longevity but hard to get a good finish on it. Acrylic putty seems to have disappeared from the shelves, which is a shame
Only lasts 10 minutes, though, and then the rot's also in your window.
Get fresh putty from a glass supplier not a DIY store. Check date on lid, if none or if more than say 4 weeks old don't buy it. Fresh putty clean and easy to use. Knead a lump with a knife on a board and then a bit more in you hand if its cold. Apply by hand in one steady move sort of squeezing it out and flattening with thumb at same time, with plenty of excess. Only do one fillet at a time starting with the top if in situ - is a lot easier on a bench. I always do it on the bench unless impossible. Smooth with putty knife - I use a 1inch stainless steel scraper which I've got used to. It has to be clean and shiny or putty will drag. This too should be one steady move, cutting off excess and pressing in at same time. Finish each fillet perfectly before starting the next. The 2 sides of the rebate and the face of the putty should make a neat triangle in section - with clear line of sight from inside - no putty visible on the glass. Never use sprigs except as temporary holding if essential - usually not necessary. If you have to use them leave them sticking out and pull them out after a few days and make good the putty. When finished wet the whole window with a spray or flicking with a brush. This speeds up the set and also makes putty smears easy to wash off later. If you dont do this smears stick like shit to blankets. I have to say it took me lots of practice to get fast at it but I am now and quite enjoy glazing up a suite of small paned sash windows etc, which used to be a daunting prospect.
Jacob
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