Tasteful hole in kitchen worktop

I need to make a hole near the corner of a kitchen worktop to bring up a 12v power cable (with right-angled concentric plug) and aerial lead for SWMBO's new 6" LCD TV (so she can watch TV while preparing the dinner - yes, I know!). Making a hole is a last resort, having eliminated all other possible routes - all of which would have left a lot of exposed cables and hardware because the walls are tiled with wallpaper above, and I can't disturb any of that.

In order to make this hole "acceptable", I would like to finish it with a metal or plastic tube (ID in the region of 20-25mm) going down through the worktop, with a chrome flange/bezel on the top.

Does anyone have any suggestions what I could use for this - I'm not sure whether to go to a plumber's merchant or an electronics shop - or indeed to a kitchen fitter?!

Reply to
Set Square
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How about an end socket usually used for wardrobe rails and the like. screw it to the work top and use a short length of the rail itself to line the hole.

Reply to
gribblechips

Interesting thought, thanks.

I really want a one piece tube and flange, though, with no screw holes in the flange - I would glue it in with sealant, unless the tube had a thread on the outside to take a nut underneath the worktop.

Reply to
Set Square

Not sure about why you need the tube, but you used to be able to get collars (without screw holes) in chrome etc that were designed to be put into the floor where a radiator pipe entered it.

Essentially, they are to make the joint look tidy when the pipe enters a polished wood floor.

Not sure what they are called though or where to get them. Rob

Reply to
Kalico

something like this ?

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Reply to
Graeme

you could use a bass tube for a speaker housing, they are the right sort of hole size, but afaik only in black plastic, or what about a basin waste fitting with the grill chopped out?

Reply to
mrcheerful

Take a look at the plastic fittings installed in the counters of post offices where the electronic counter units are fed from under the counter. I used to have a few spare kicking around until we moved house about three years ago. Perhaps one of the offices which are closing might be a source.

Reply to
John

Thanks for the suggestions. I've look at a basin waste today - and it's the right sort of thing, but too big.

I (or rather, SWMBO!) could probably live with black plastic if it's the right size. Where would I get a speaker housing bass tube, and how big are they?

Reply to
Set Square

Put an aerial amplifier feeding a length of wire under the surface and then a simple loop aerial on the TV. Should work well enough for an LCD jobby.

Reply to
G&M

Try an office supplies place. They have these things in desks designed to take computer equipment. They may have them separately, or give you one from a broken/incomplete unit.

Reply to
Bob Eager

Taking the plugs off will mean a smaller hole. Then joining the cables again under the worktop.

Reply to
John
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Reply to
Kalico

I might have to resort to that. It's easy with the aerial lead, but the 12v supply cable is moulded into a power supply with 13A plug at one end, and moulded into the outlet for the TV at the other end. I don't *really* want to cut this because of warranty issues.

Reply to
Set Square

I looked at some of those in one of the sheds. They would do at a push, but are really too large in diameter relative to the central hole - pushing the hole in the worktop too far out from the corner. I reaaly want a smaller flange than this.

Reply to
Set Square

In article , Set Square writes

How about a pipe stiffener for mdpe in white nylon as is has the through hole sleeving and a small diameter flange to finish the top surface. I've got one for 25mm here which is a bit too small (20o/d, 17i/d), but one for

32mm pipe would prob do the job (guess 27o/d, 24i/d?). Plumbers' merchant will prob have one offs. Doesn't meet your chrome finish spec, but you could place a bright plated or stainless washer under the flange. I've tried it here & it looks ok but is actually less obtrusive without the washer. Or do some mfrs make their stiffeners in Ali?

Hope you can visualise the idea.

Reply to
fred

I think that's the best idea so far - many thanks.

Reply to
Set Square

I'd have the tube come up above the counter an inch or two, and caulk around it where it goes through the counter, to keep spills out.

What's the countertop? If it's laminate, maybe you can get small pieces of matching laminate flexible enough to surround the tube, which could then be pretty much anything (pvc, etc).

hey, how about this: get one of those pots (in marble, or steel, or wood) designed to hold spoons and spatulas, bore a hole in the bottom, and cement it over the hole in the counter. Then the cords just "disappear" into it. You can even fill the hole with foam or something and use it for holding things, in addition to the cords!

Chip C

Reply to
Chip C

On that idea, why not shine up one of the inserts for Hep2O? Rob

Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply

Reply to
Kalico

Or: find a couple of mini connectors that will screw or glue to the top of the worktop. Before atatching em, drill 1mm holes for enamelled wires to go through. Sort out the wiring on the underside. Short cables on the TV keep things tidy.

Or you could have a standard phone sized socket box right above the countertop, with your sockets of choice in it. The box covers the hole in the counter. etc etc etc.

Or you could get wacky and suspend the TV from 3 wires, which conveniently carry the power and ae signals. Or mount the TV under the cupboards above instead of on the top, then hiding wires maye be easier.

I wont suggest a projection box or a microwave power beam, but there are plenty of workable options.

Regards, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

In article , Kalico writes

Sounds good, metal I see, are they stainless? I'm guessing 28mm pipe size, 25mm i/d, metal insert with thinner wall than plastic prob 24mm i/d?

Reply to
fred

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