Taper versus Parallel thread

Nice, I looked at this route, but it all looked a bit complicated and expensive from the various compressed air firms. They too have gone over to 'specialised' pushfit for compressed air.

I took the low tech route and went with galvanised steel tubes, iron fittings and munson rings to the wall. I already had a BSP thread cutter and tube clamp I picked up at a local car boot.

Cheers,

Paul.

Reply to
zymurgy
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DON'T mess about with compressed air doing improvisations. It can easily kill. It only take a few bar to propel metal about the place. Use the proper fittings or don't bother at all.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

He did use one of the correct approaches. Steel tubing, iron fittings are the traditional way.

I used another of the correct approaches which is Speedfit blue tube and the black push fit fittings that go with it. It has the advantage of being easy to change and to add additional components when required.

However, I would agree with you that use of unsuitable materials is a really bad idea with compressed air.

Reply to
Andy Hall

I leave that to you.

Reply to
Andy Hall

[snip]

Boggle! I didn't think I would ever see the combination of:

- that phrase

- written by Andy Hall

- in reply to a posting by Doctor Drivel

Reply to
Martin Bonner

He does very occasionally get things right and in proportion to the discussion, so it's important to reward him when this happens even though it's quite by accident - helps with his therapy.

Reply to
Andy Hall

Heh, I feel honoured, i've been 'Drivelled'

Yep, no improvisation here ;)

Oh, I dunno, that 22/25mm Blue Pex water pipe looks pretty sturdy ;-)

Cheers

Paul.

Reply to
zymurgy

No they don't. The pitch is constant and so is the thread depth. It's the base diameter that tapers.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

np

I'd have to go into the loft to check the box for the exact pressure, but I know it's a showerforce one.

Cheers

Paul.

Reply to
zymurgy

|On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel" |wrote: | |> The thread tapers away from deep pitch to narrow pitch. | |No they don't. The pitch is constant and so is the thread depth. It's |the base diameter that tapers.

When I learned to cut tapered threads years ago, the thread profile was constant and both the base diameter, and the thread top diameters tapered.

Reply to
Dave Fawthrop

Matt, just do not give advise on topics you know little.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Look at the dies and cut one and it is obvious.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Matt, and another thing. DON'T use pushfits. If the grab ring goes you will know about it.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

I always use the correct tools, so don't run into the problems that you do.

Reply to
Andy Hall

LOL. I did use the correct fittings and the correct method of assembly.

BTW, I ride a 180MPH motorbike, I think a bit of compressed air is the least of my worries :-)

HTH

Paul.

Reply to
zymurgy

Post edited for accuracy...

;-)

Reply to
Beelzebub

Matt, I know you an total amateur, and slow as well, but fittings and tools are two very different things. Hint: you will not find fittings in Makita manuals.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Kill yourself by all mean, but don't take others with you.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Dribble, you are really dim and completely out of your depth. Many days ago I posted a quote from a well respected engineering reference handbook that many in the engineering profession would consider a reasonably definitive definition of "pitch" together with its application to a taper thread.

(see Message-ID: )

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS DEEP PITCH OR NARROW PITCH

Reply to
Matt

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

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