Table Saw recommendation please

[mark]

I've recently borrowed a table saw and not having had one before, have decided it is a 'must have'.

The one I borrowed was an oldish KITY. I got quite addicted to it and spent quite some time turning boards into bird box components.

It was good for repetitive tasks and the main down side was setting the fence. Measure and tighten one end, measure and tighten the other end, then go back and reset the first end which had shifted slightly. Cross cutting wasn't ideal.

I would like recommendations for a table saw.

a) Price range would be £100 to £500. Cheapness isn't the absolute criteria.

b) Blade size probably no less than 250mm.

c) A quickly adjustable fence.

mark

[dom]

I bought the Jet Supersaw from Axminster, which fits all your criterea, but is a bit out of your budget. Excellent all round, solid & easily-set fence, sliding table, very substantial cast iron table - and if you can hang on for a little bit, I'd be happy to sell it on. It is a "push about on wheels" saw - rather than something you can pick up and walk about with, so you would need a permanent location - even if it gets wheeled into a corner between uses.

However I'd also strongly recommend "old British makes" which are always coming up on ebay. Something like a Startrite or similar. When I have a permanent workshop that's what I will buy (with prob a

300-400mm blade). These are pretty much in the "stays put" category with all the larger models.

For a lighter, portable saw - everything I've seen form Scheppach has been good. (or for that matter their larger products. Some of their saws have a micro-adjustment on the fence, push the locking lever down to the nearest mm, then use the thumbwheel to get fractions of a mm)

[Jim]

If you already have a hand held circular saw then Wolfcraft make a bench which it fixes to upside down underneath.

[stuart noble]

A flipover saw might do you. Good for cross cutting, and a reasonably good table saw. Best (or worst) of both worlds depending how you look at it. This type of thing, but there may be cheaper versions

chop and table saws would be better value if you have the space

[dennis]

For doing small panels quickly and accurately a sliding table is useful.

I have no idea if you can get a good one in the price range you specified. This looks OK but you really need to try it.

[george [dicegeorge]]

Get one with a transparent blade guard, you can see whats going on and less temptation to remove it and get speared by a splinter flying at hundreds of miles per hour!

[g]

[dom]

I can't say that I've ever wanted on needed a transparent blade guard. The only time I remove my solid blade guard, is for trench cuts.

What is it you need to see?

[The Medway Handyman]

Charnwood have a good range. Little known but excellent company (no connection) with fantastic after sales service.

Cross cutting wasn't ideal.

I replaced the fence on my budget (now discontinued) Charnwood with one of these

which transformed it completely.

[John Rumm]

Indeed - a good one can serve as the primary tool in a workshop!

What you have not said is what type of table saw are you after? There are small portable ones designed for site use right up to large fixed wood working machines designed to stay put in a workshop.

[robgraham]

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... and do you mean one that sits on the floor or on your workbench?

[mark]

Ideally one that has it's own stand. I would like it semi-portable so I can lug it outside weather permitting. Have no intention of putting it in and out of vehicle. Oh and a sliding table for cross cutting, didn't know about that feature until someone mentioned it in this thread. I've noticed the term 'Contract Table Saw', which seem good value and have

300mm blades. Don't know why they have a larger blade but don't cost significantly more. Is there a down side I haven't twigged?

mark

[dennis]

They tend to be a bit crude. They are really for ripping down wood for construction on site. It doesn't usually need to be exact or that well finished. I think you would struggle if you are doing joinery rather than carpentry.

You can build a saw table around such a beast to make it better. the new Yankee workshop did so with a small bench top saw in an episode a few years ago. About the only thing that was actually used on the original was the depth and angle setting, the guides, fence, etc. were built into the new table.

[stuart noble]

I wouldn't buy anything that didn't have a decent fence. If that locks easily and is parallel to the blade, the rest is easy

[John Rumm]

There is quite a bit of choice in that sector, although I am not sure how satisfactory you will find them. Much depends on what you plan to do with it. The sort of portable / but with a stand class machines are basically the same as the portable bench top saws - just with a stand. Hence fine for general carpentry, but lacking the rigidity and accuracy and particularly, table space you would want in a cabinet makers saw.

What to a larger blade? Only that the blades cost more, and the larger blade will show up poor quality bearings more so than a smaller one. You get a bit more depth of cut. It probably matters more for a site saw where you may be ripping down thick timbers.